Spacetrucking ~ The Peak Points The Way

Peak Points The Way, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

“Nothing needs to be impossible for you. After all man is six feet taller than the mountain he climbs. Only the will resolute has to be there” — J. B. Auden

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Gangotri III , long exposure shot at twilight with star trails.

Taken during the trek to Auden's Col, which connects the Bhilganga Valley and Rudguira valley in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India.

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Auden's Col (5,400 mtrs) connects Jogin I (6465m) and Gangotri III (6580m) peaks . It also marks the meeting of two glaciers which converge here from opposite sides. One is Khatling glacier and the other one the hanging glacier which descends from Jogin I.

The Col is approachable from Gangotri (which makes an ideal starting point) and one can trek up to Kedarnath from Auden's Col travelling via the Khatling glacier's lateral moraine this joining the two holy spots of Hindu Pilgrimage..(The route from the north is fairly easy but from the south it is decidedly tricky and is only meant for people who have some experience in glacier travel and rudimentary mountaineering skills as a lot of the terrain is usually snowed up)

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The Col is named after Dr. J.B. Auden (who was the elder brother of the poet & playwright W.H. Auden (who dedicated his play : The Ascent of F6 to him)

He joined the Geological Survey of India and had traveled widely in many parts of the Himalaya and the Karakoram.

In October 1935 he was in the Gangotri area of Garhwal with Dr. D.C. Macdonald and three Sherpas.
He returned to the area in 1939 in the company of two porters from Harsil hamlet, he crossed a pass at the head of the Rudugaira valley to the Bhilaganga valley in the south. This is now known as ‘Auden’s Col’ and is not often repeated. , this crossing was at the termination of two months of traveling light, living primitively in tents weighing three kilograms.
The north side of this col was relatively easy-going, but the south side presented some difficulties in crossing the pinnacled ice.

He also explored the Jadh Ganga, Mana Gad and the Lamkhaga valleys on the same trip.

Auden's Other Himalayan Journey’s

•In July 1933 Auden with Captain C.E.C. Gregory completed the survey of the Biafo glacier in Pakistan

•Then in 1934 he was in Nepal to study the effects of the great earthquake which caused havoc in Bihar-Nepal on l5January 1934. With D.N. Wadia, Dr.J.A. Dunn and A.M.N. Ghosh, he traversed large areas of Nepal and published an authentic record of his travels in the Himalayan Ranges.

•Auden’s most well-known trip was to the Shaksgam valley (now in China) in 1937. This was in the company of Eric Shipton, H.W. Tilman and M.A. Spender,( brother of another famous poet). Shipton makes detailed references to their journey in his autobiography while Auden recorded the geological results of the trip including producing the most definitive maps of the enormous Snow Lake region which are still in use today.

Dr. Auden was an Original Member of The Mountain Club of India (1927) which founded the Himalayan Club.

On The Trail.....

The twin Peaks of Shivling with the East Pillar in front seems close enough to touch but as usual its foreshortening at work.. Very difficult to get the true scale of these mighty peaks..

There is an old saying (which is specially true in the mountains) : DO NOT MISTAKE A CLEAR VIEW FOR A SHORT DISTANCE ...

The peak is still around 20 miles away as the crow flies and the trail climbing up from Gaumukh (the once traditional source of the Ganga but now retreated higher) to the meadows of Tapovan winds through some of the most dramatic scenery .. huge boulders, loose rocky hillsides and finally over the lateral moraines of the Gangotri glacier itself, which is covered with numerous glaciated boulders and crevasses and mainly made up of shattered rock

The whole locale looks something like Mordor out of LOTR...

Everywhere destructive forces are at work, with nary a sign of anything growing .. The shale and slate moraines are the remains of boulders crushed by the most erosive force in the world - a glacier - a slow moving river of ice, which decimates everything even mountains as it inexorably tumbles down to the valley floor below..

All this time Shivling looms on the right, until it passes out of view and you begin a steep ascent which finally culminates at the meadows of Tapovan, the contrast to the trail is total, here verdant hillsides, lichen covered rocks and wild flowers in profusion and it's such a joy to see things growing again and a grand vista of mighty peaks come into view those peaks which make up the great crique of the Gangotri Group of Peaks.. (Bhagirathi, Karchakund, Sumeru, Kedar Dome, Shivling, Meru, Bhrigupanth, Thalay Sagar)

The view alone is worth the toil of the trail...

Day's End.

Day's End., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Sunset on Karchakund's (6612 mtrs) North Face as seen from the Trek to Shivling's Base Camp in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India.

Sundervan (4 700mtrs) usually serves as base camp for teams attempting the mountain and is reached by by crossing the Ghanohim Glacier from the Gangotri Glacier.

The north ridge of this mountain is made up of 5 peaks popularly referred to as "The Five Pinnacles" This ridge has been attempted the most and offers some high quality mixed climbing (rock: Alpine VI, A1 and ice up to Scottish V grade)on the ridge between 5000mtrs and 6000mtrs, with some interesting pitches on each of the five pinnacles.

• First Ascent & First Alpine Style Ascent

Karchakund was first climbed by a Japanese Team in 1980, after failing on the north ridge they put two parties on the summit via the west ridge using fixed rope.

In 1987 A British Team comprising Robin, Beadle, Bobby Gilbert and Rob Tesidder and Pete Scott, climbed all 5 pinnacles in Alpine Style over 5 &1/2 days without fixed camps or rope.

Since then Karchakund has seen many ascents as it is specially popular with Indian Teams specially from Bengal who face off regularly against this beautiful mountain each year

Beautiful Dawn

Beautiful Dawn, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Dawn on Karchakund's (6612 mtrs) North Face as seen from the Gangotri Glacier in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India.
Sundervan (4 700mtrs) usually serves as base camp for teams attempting the mountain and is reached by by crossing the Ghanohim Glacier from the Gangotri Glacier.

The north ridge of this mountain is made up of 5 peaks popularly referred to as "The Five Pinnacles" This ridge has been attempted the most and offers some high quality mixed climbing (rock: Alpine VI, A1 and ice up to Scottish V grade)on the ridge between 5000mtrs and 6000mtrs, with some interesting pitches on each of the five pinnacles.


First Ascent & First Alpine Style Ascent

Karchakund was first climbed by a Japanese Team in 1980, after failing on the north ridge they put two parties on the summit via the west ridge using fixed rope.

In 1987 A British Team comprising Robin, Beadle, Bobby Gilbert and Rob Tesidder and Pete Scott, climbed all 5 pinnacles in Alpine Style over 5 &1/2 days without fixed camps or rope.

Since then Karchakund has seen many ascents as it is specially popular with Indian Teams specially from Bengal who face off regularly against this beautiful mountain each year.

Sunset over Bhagirathi III & I

Sunset over Bhagirathi III & I, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Sunset coats Bhagirathi I in Alpen Glow, as viewed from the Gangotri Glacier.

Bhagirathi I is the farthest peak of the Bhagirathi Sisters group one of the many mountains which make up the Gangotri Group. Though many attempts and routes are tried on the formidable & difficult West Buttress of Bhagirathi III (The rib of the great buttress can be seen in this shot in the shadiows), Bhagirathi I has received scant attention.

Routes & Main Ascents
It was only in 1990 that a Japanese Expedition using nearly 2000 mtrs of rope made the first ascent via its Southeast Ridge.A small team of Alpinists from Britain made a fine Alpine Style ascent in 1983 via its West Ridge, which gave them some excellent granite but tricky snow climbing. Martin Moran , Charlie Heard & John Mothersdale made the summit in a fine effort without roping up the mountain or fancy ironmongery.. But sadly during the descent Heard fell to his death
Since then there have been other attempts amongst them some Indian Teams

In all her glory..

In all her glory.., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

nyone who's ever witnessed the sun set or rise over mountains can attest that during these daily occurances the mountains are at their most beautiful.. The constant shifting in the intensity of the light makes these times entrancing as you feverishly wish that you can capture it all on film (though film can never compare to actually being there and cannot truely convey the magnificance totally still its the next best thing)..

Also another reason I click a lot of such shots is that while climbing in the Garhwal and Kumaon Himal it is best to get the major climbing done when the snow is relatively hard and compact after a nights freeze as within an hour of the sun touching the slopes, the snow conditions start to deteriorate almost instantly and by noon its almost slush.

Its this constant freeze and melting which also make rockfall a constant danger as the snow binding these rocks becomes elastic and all of a sudden the rocks break loose when least expected.

These two reasons make climbing here quite a serious proposition and as a result the standard grade of difficulty on climbs like the Sharks Fins (Meru Central seen here) or the South Pillar of Changabang & Bhagirathi's West Buttress , South Face of Purbi Dunagiri (Still unclimbed) are amongst the highest that mountaineers have tackled making them some of the hardest technical Big Wall climbs in the world today.
Out of 30 expeditions only 2 have managed to climb the Shark's Fin and that too not all the way having had to detour from the route to reach the peak.

Shiva's Trident

Shiva's Trident, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Sunset on Trisul during the Roopkund Trek. (View Large)

Trisul I 7120 mtrs(30°18′36″N 79°46′12″E /30.31, 79.77)

Trisul II 6690mtrs(30°17′24″N 79°46′12″E / 30.29, 79.77)

Trisul III 6008mtrs (30°15′00″N 79°46′12″E / 30.25, 79.77) ;

In the Annals of Himalayan Climbing History Trisul plays an important part as it was one of the earliest peaks in the Himalayas to be submitted in 1907
Early Climbing History & First Ascent:
The legendary Dr. T. G. Longstaff made the first climbing reconnaissance of Trisul, in September 1905, focusing on the western and southern sides.
In 1907 The Alpine Club as part of their Golden Jubliee Celebrations were refused permission to climb Everest so attention shifted to Trishul. A.L. Mumm (a wealthy publisher)& guaranteed to meet all expenses.

The party was
A. L. Mumm,with his usual guide Moritz Inderbinnen
Charles Bruce with 9 Gorkhas from the Gorkha Rifles. ( General Bruce would be the expedition leader of the 1922 and 1924 Everest expedition)

Dr. Tom Langstaff with his guides, The Two Bocherel Brothers Alex and Henri. (The Canadian climber and Doctor who was the chief medical officer of the 1922 Everest Expedition)
{It was standard practice to climb with Swiss Alpine Guides in those days, except for Dr A.M Kellas who climbed with Sherpas, mostly all early explorers brought their own guides from Europe}
Bottled Oxygen was used for the first time in Himalayan Conditions manufactured by Seibb & Gormann who would later supply the early Everest Expeditions of 1922 and 1924.

The Climb:
From a camp at about 17,500 ft. Longstaff, The Bocherel Brothers, and Kabir one of the Gorkha soldiers reached the top, a fine feat of mountaineering considering that they climbed nearly 6,000 ft in just a day in fine weather.
It remained the highest peak to be climbed until the next 25 years till the first ascent of KAMET in 1931 by Frank Symthe's team.

From an Indian Mountaineering point of view Trisul was the first major peak to be climbed by an Indian Team with Indian Climbers in 1951 when Gurdial Singh ( a teacher at Doon School) with Roy Greenwood(an Englishman) & Sherpa Dawa Thondupreached the summit.

The only demonstration of joy was their homage to Mother Earth, they bent their heads low and pointed their feet skywards (a Sheeshasana or headstand) on the summit of Trishul! !!!
Gurdials Singh's Summit Photograph

The Fortress of Nanda

Nanda Kot Seen from Chakori, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Elevation 6,861 m (22,510 ft)
Location Pithoragarh, Uttarakhand,
Range Kumaun Himalaya
Prominence 1,592 m (5,223 ft)
Coordinates 30°16′54″N, 80°04′06″E[1]
First ascent 1936 by Y. Hotta
Easiest route Lawan Valley

Nanda Kot (Hindi-नन्दा कोट) is located in the Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand state in India. It lies in the Kumaon Himalaya, just outside of the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, 15 kilometres (9 mi) southeast of Nanda Devi itself. The name Nanda Kot literally means "Nanda's Fortress" and refers to the abode of one of the sacred forms of the Hindu Goddess Parvati who in legend has made her sanctuary amongst the ring of lofty mountains in the region.

Nanda Kot is connected to the Sanctuary wall by a high pass known as the Pindari Kanda, 5,269 m (17,287 ft). This pass, Nanda Kot itself, and the ridge proceeding south from the peak together form the divide between the Pindar and Ghori Ganga River valleys, with Dana Dhura Pass connecting the two sides. The Kaphni (or Kafani), Pindar, Lawan, and Shalang Glaciers drain the south, west, north, and east sides of the peak respectively.

Climbing History: The first attempt to climb Nanda Kot was made in 1905 by T.G. Longstaff, who proceeded by way of the Lawan Valley and Lawan Glacier. The first successful ascent of the summit came in 1936 by a Japanese team led by Y. Hotta. A new route involving a direct ascent of the south face was successfully undertaken by a British expedition led by Martin Moran in 1995. Mountaineering expeditions to Nanda Kot today typically follow the route through Loharkhet, Dhakuri Pass, Khati Village to Dwali base camp.

Nanda Devi/Nanda Kot Nuclear Controversy:
During 1965-1968 there was series of seven mountaineering expeditions — four to Nanda Devi and three to Nanda Kot – as part of the most exotic and hazardous intelligence operations of the cold war, backed by the CIA. During this most unusual mountaineering venture n 1965, a covert mission was launched by an Indo-American team with the goal of installing a surveillance device on the top of Nanda Devi mountain to monitor Chinese nuclear and missile activity in Tibet. Shortly after delivery to the mountain, the thermonuclear generator designed to supply power to the sensor was lost during a storm and threatened to become a source of radioactive contamination to the area. Following upon at least three futile attempts between 1966-1968 to locate and recover the lost apparatus, it is said that in 1968 a similar device placed only the year before on Nanda Kot was dismantled. After more than a decade of secrecy, this story hit the Indian news media in 1978. There is still debate over these expeditions and whether any remnants of the radioactive materials remain in the vicinity of Nanda Kot to this day.
The Nanda Devi Sanctuary remains closed to visitors ever since, on "ecological grounds" as per the official version.

India team was led by M.S. Kohli (leader of the successful 1965 Everest Expedition) and included Sonam Gyatso, Harish Rawat, Sonam Wangyal and G.S. Bhangu – all Everesters. The Americans were represented by Lute Jerstad , Tom frost, Robert Schaller, Barry Corbet and a Barry Prather (Most were members of the 1963 Everest Expedtion)

Bhagirathi - I (6512 mtrs)

Bhagirathi - I (6512 mtrs), originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Bhagirathi I is the farthest peak of the Bhagirathi Sisters group one of the many mountains which make up the Gangotri Group. Though many attempts and routes are tried on the formidable & difficult West Buttress of Bhagirathi III (The rib of the buttress can be seen in these 2 shots), Bhagirathi I has received scant attention.

Routes & Main Ascents:

It was only in 1990 that a Japanese Expedition using nearly 2000 mtrs of rope made the first ascent via its Southeast Ridge.

A small team of Alpinists from Britain made a fine Alpine Style ascent in 1983 via its West Ridge, which gave them some excellent granite but tricky snow climbing. Martin Moran , Charlie Heard & John Mothersdale made the summit in a fine effort without roping up the mountain or fancy ironmongery.. But sadly during the descent Heard fell to his death.
Since then there have been other attempts amongst them some Indian Teams.

Sudarshan and Its Neighbours

Rosy Fingered Dawn., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Dawn over Sudarshan Parbat (6507mts), Saife (6161mts), Yogeshwar, Chattrabhuj Peaks during the Kalindi Khal Trek going towards Gangotri in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India
All the peaks except Yogeshwar were climbed by and extremely successful Indo French Expedition in 1981 led jointly by Harish Kapadia & Bernard Odgier this team of 11 climbers climed 5 other peaks in the region..

• Sudarshan Parvat Altitude: 6,507 Mts.

Sudarshan Parvat has beauty as well as challenge. It gets its name from Sudarshan Chakra. the weapon which Lord Krishna or Vishnu holds in his hand. It is believed to be released in the ultimate crisis.. (another theory is that it is named after a Raja of Jumla, Chakra Sudarshan Shahin the the late 18th Century when this region was under the control of the Gurkha kings)
The climbing history of Sudarshan is brief though spread over 19 years. Situated above the Gangotri Temple, it has been a challenge to mountaineers. It was attempted by as many as five expeditions, the last being in 1979 before an Indo -French team jointly led by Harish Kapadia & Bernard Odier made the first ascent in 1981

• Saife Altitude: 6,161 Mts.

South-southeast of Sudarshan Parvat lies a gentle yet deceptive peak. Saife in local language means 'Sword' or the weapon carried by Lord Ram, who is also known as the God with the white complexion-Swetvarna. This peak lies near Koteshwar-'God of the Edges'. Thus with sword edge -like ridges, the name is appropriate.

• Yogeshwar Altitude: 6,678 Mts.

Situated northeast of Sudarshan Parvat lies Yogeshwar. It takes its name from Lord Krishna, in a serene mood and thus can be aptly applied to this high snowy peak. Yogeshwar was first climbed by Ramakant Mahadik in 1991. It was again climbed by a British team in 92. After that there have been no noticeable attempts on these peaks. Yogeswar was climbed by the south side through Shyamvarna glacier its west ridge which connects to Chatubhuj is still unclimbed

• Chaturbhuj Altitude: 6,655 Mts.

Chaturbhuj, situated north of Sudarshan Parvat, literally means ' one with four hands'. This is the name for Lord Vishnu who has four hands and holds the Sudarshan Chakra. This peak has four distinct ridged falling in four directions, thus both mythologically as well as topographically this name is appropriate.

The summit of Chaturbhuj is a conical pyramid, very steep, 15 Mts. long and 2 Mts. high.

Since the first attempts these peaks have become very popular with Indian Teams as they are open peaks and this area remains filled with teams with the season every year.

Satopanth (7075 meters, 23212 feet)

Satopanth (7075 meters, 23212 feet), originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

The Summit Pyramid of Mt. Satopanth lit up in alpenglow during sunset as viewed from high up on neighboring Vasuki Parvat in the Garhwal Himal in Uttarakhand India.

The 7075m high pyramid of Satopanth belongs to the select 7000+ mtrs club and is a spectacularly beautiful peak which is easily recognizable due to its unique summit plateau which stands out distinctly in the sea of sharp spires of the other peaks around it.

As compared to other climbing peaks in the Garhwal Himal it is technically less demanding and has fewer objective hazards than peaks of similar altitude.

Another factor which contributes to its popularity is its relatively easy access from the road head and Vasuki tal is as idyllic a basecamp one can hope for.

For the last few years it has been used for training young alpinists and mountaineers as it gently introduces climbers to that magic 7000 mtrs mark and is a useful training peak frequently used by UIAA and other International Mountaineering Clubs as well as the ones in India for conducting their advanced mountaineering courses.

Satopanth was first climbed in 1947 by the Swiss alpinists Andre Roch and Alexander Graven via the North East ridge, which they called ‘A Ladder to Heaven’, due to its
Aesthetic beauty and summit views.( This expedition also made First ascent of Kedarnath(6940 m), Kalindi Peak (6102 m), Balbala (6414 m), Nanda Ghunti (6310 m), and made a fine attempt on Chaukhamba (7138 m)..

It wasn’t till 34 years till the next ascent was made in 1981 but since then the speed and number of ascents has increased very much with over 10 ascents for the last 5 years every year.

Neelkanth (6596 mtrs)

Neelkanth (6596 mtrs), originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Elevation 6,596 metres (21,640 ft)
Location Uttarakhand, India
Range Garhwal Himalaya
Prominence 1,200 m (3,940 ft)
Coordinates 30°43′12″N, 79°24′00″E
First ascent June 3, 1974

The Satopanth Glacier lies on the northwest side of Nilkantha, below a 2,500 m (8,200 ft) face of the peak. The Panpatia Glacier lies to the southwest, and feeds the Khir Ganga, a stream running under the south side of the peak. Further away, to the west of the peak, lies the well-known Gangotri Glacier and its associated peaks. Across the Alaknanda valley lie the Kamet and Nanda Devi groups.

A shining pyramid of white crystals, overlooking the famous Badrinath temple in Uttarakhand. It is often called the GARHWAL QUEEN due to its fragile beauty.

That legendary mountaineer Frank Smythe (who made the first attempt to climb this mountain in 1937), called it the most mountain he had ever seen.
Its undeniable beauty often belies its difficulties and make it one of the harder climbs in the Garhwal Himalayas.

With its steep ridges and faces, Nilkantha resisted at least nine climbing attempts, beginning with Frank Smythe in 1937, Hillary & Lowe in 1961.Till last year only 4 successful ascents had been recorded though not for the want of trying. .

The peak was first climbed on by a team of the ITBP (Indo-Tibetan Border Police) led by S.P Chamoli on June 3, 1974 by Sonam Pulzor, Kanhiya Lal, Dilip Singh, and Nima Dorje. After unsuccessfully attempting the west ridge, they reached the summit via the north face, making three camps above base camp.

Last year the first Indian civilian expedition sponsored by the Himalayan Club (Calcutta), made what only the 5th successful ascent was following the route of the Scottish 2000 expedition in an epic 57 hour climb without camps they managed to return after a successful climb.

Panchchuli II (6904 mtrs)

Panchchuli II (6904 mtrs), originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Elevation 6,904 m (22,651 ft)
LocationPithoragarh, Uttarakhand, India
Range Kumaon Himalaya
Prominence 1,614 m (5,295 ft)
Coordinates 30°12′51″N, 80°25′39″E

The most visible symbol in the Munsyari valley are the peaks of Panch Chuli, as with other peaks in the region these peaks too are revered and are named after the five Pandava brothers from the Indian epic Mahabharata.

The peaks represent their cooking hearths (chulis) where they cooked their last meal before ascending to heaven

Spectacular sunsets & sunrises turn these peaks into Virtual Baskets of Alpenglow and the peak tops almost seem ablaze and its not hard to imagine why they were named thus..

Trisul I, II , III & Mrigthuni

Trishul I, II , III & Mrigthuni, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Location | Bageshwar, Uttarakhand,
Range | Garhwal - Kumaun Himalaya
Prominence | 1,616 m(5,302 ft)
First ascent | June 12, 1907 by Tom Longstaff, A. Brocherel, H.Brocherel, Karbir
Easiest route | North east flank/north ridge: snow/glacier climb
Trisul I 7120 mtrs (30°18′36″N 79°46′12″E /30.31, 79.77)
Trisul II 6690mtrs (30°17′24″N 79°46′12″E / 30.29, 79.77)
Trisul III 6008mtrs (30°15′00″N 79°46′12″E / 30.25, 79.77)
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Early Climbing History & First Ascent:
In the Annals of Himalayan Climbing History Trishul plays an important part as it was one of the earliest peaks in the Himalayas to be submitted in 1907

The legendary Dr. T. G. Longstaff made the first climbing reconnaissance of Trisul, in September 1905, focusing on the western and southern sides.

In 1907 The Alpine Club as part of their Golden Jubilee Celebrations were refused permission to climb Everest so attention shifted to Trishul.
A.L. Mumm (a wealthy publisher) guaranteed to meet all expenses. The party was
· Mumm, with his usual guide Moritz Inderbinnen

· Charles Bruce with 9 Gorkhas from the Gorkha Rifles.
( General Bruce would be the expedition leader of the 1922 Everest expedition)

· Dr. Tom Langstaff with his guides, The Two Bocherel Brothers Alex and Henri. (The Canadian climber who was the chief medical officer of the 1922 Everest Expedition)
{It was standard practice to climb with Swiss Alpine Guides in those days, except for Dr A.M Kellas who climbed with Sherpas (or coolies as they were then known), mostly all early explorers brought their own guides from Europe}

Bottled Oxygen was used for the first time in Himalayan Conditions manufactured by Seib & Gormann who would later supply the early Everest Expeditions of 1922 and 1924.

It remained the highest peak to be climbed until the next 25 years till the first ascent of KAMET in 1931 by Frank Symthe's team.

Mrigthuni was first climbed in 1958 by an Indian Team which included Aamir Ali (brother of noted Indian Orinthologist Saleem Ali)

A Pinkish Dawn on Sudarshan Parvat 6,057 m,

A Pinkish Dawn on Sudarshan Parvat 6,057 m, , originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Towering over an altitude of 6,057 m, Sudarshan Parvat commands a scintillating view of the Gangotri Peaks and valley, a little of Tibet and all the neighboring peaks. It is named after the chief weapon of Lord Vishnu - Sudarshana Chakra (- which is to be released only in the moment of ultimate crisis.)

Situated above the Gangotri Temple, it has been a challenge to mountaineers. It was attempted by as many as five expeditions, the last being in 1979 before an Indo -French team jointly led by Harish Kapadia & Bernard Odier made the first ascent in 1981along with 5 other peaks in the region

In The Valley of Flowers Uttarkhand, India.

In The Valley of Flowers Uttarkhand, India., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

In 1982, the smallest national park in the Himalayas was created to protect the catchment area of the Pushpavati River and Bhayandar Valley.. This stream follows the contours of the steep valley which leads to Hemkunt Sahib, and is the constant companion of the pilgrims who trudge upward on the footpath.

The first westerner to enter the head of the valley was Edmund Smythe a noted "Shikari" & one of the earliest members of the Alpine Club. Among his other contribution for prosterity was the recruitment of the "Pandits"- Indian Explorers from the valley of Johar & Niti who would fill in nearly 100,000 sq kms of previously unmapped terrain in Nepal, Tibet & China.

He was appointed the first Inspector of the Kumaon Circle Public Instruction Department in 1861, he opened up a long disused pass between Niti & Badrinath, at the head of the Bhayundur Valley.

British mountaineers were to rediscover this same valley in 1931 . Frank S. Smythe passed through in 1931 after a successful first ascent of Kamet looking for a place to recuperate he and his team literally stumbled across this little piece of heaven & named it The Valley of Flowers

He was awed by the variety of wildflowers growing there, and returned in 1937 to collect more than two hundred botanical species. His 1938 book entitled The Valley of Flowers brought this remote Himalayan meadow to the attention of the world. In 1998 along with the nearby Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve it was named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO

The locals, of course, always knew of the existence of the valley, and believed that it was inhabited by fairies.

The Valley floor is a glacial corridor, eight kilometres in length and two kilometres in width during which it slopes from almost 3,500 metres above sea level up to 4,000 metres. True to its name, the Valley is carpeted with wildflowers during the monsoon season.

FLORA : Of the many species which coexist in this unique ecosystem, are

•Brahmakamal: (Bhrama – The creator God in the Hindu Trinity, kamal= lotus)
•The Cobra Lily(also found in Sikkim)
•The extremely rare Himalayan Blue Poppy native to the region,
•The uncommon varieties of primula and orchid which bloom during June, and
•The impatiens, potentillas, and campanulas which paint the valley pink, red, and purple during July and August.

A stone path meanders among the flowers and across streams. The flowers grow so tall that leaving the path is difficult.

Few visitors continue beyond the first one or two kilometres inside the Valley but a hardy few go in search of a grave rumoured to be there among the flowers.

(In 1939, Joan Margaret Legge, a botanist from the Kew Botanical garden in London, was collecting floral specimens in the Valley when she fell to her death. A memorial was erected in her honour. Etched in English and Hindi into the white marble of the gravestone is a line from Psalm 121 which reads "I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills from whence commeth my help."

Folklore:
Traditionally the Valley of Flowers was used by local shepherds for grazing their flocks. But in the minds of many it has a greater significance. The myths told about the valley by locals and visitors paint a picture as evocative as the flowering that is the Valley's namesake.

There are stories about faeries who carry off anyone who wanders into their domain. There are other stories about flowers in the Valley with a fragrance potent enough to make anyone who inhales it faint away.

In Hindu mythology the Valley was created when the gods showered flowers down from heaven. Since then, so the local people say, the Valley has been host to great sages who attained enlightenment while meditating there.

In the last decade I've made 2 trips to the valley and each visit was like descending into a mythical world (could have been Tolkien's Middle Earth or Alice's Wonderland)

The valley is always covered in mist which hangs low barely skimming the riotous colours of the wild flowers which carpet the landscape. I’ve never seen so many flowers grow in one place even in nurseries..

Granite Walls of Bhrigu Patthar

Granite Walls of Bhrigu Patthar, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Sunrise on the subsidiary peaks of Bhrigu Parvat as viewed from Chirabasa, in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India.. Chirbasa peak on extreme left . Bhrigu Parvat is named after Bhrigu the ascetic from Indian Mythology (one of the seven maharishis).

Bhrigu Parvat 6041
The peak is situated near Manda group and was approached from Kedar Kharak. An Indian Team from Calcutta made the last known attempt on the main peak in 2002

Quite close to the main climbing playground of the Gangotri region this gigantic rock obelisk repulsed J.B Auden on his surveying reconnaissance in 1935.

In 1991 the British Bhrigupanth Expedition led by Martin Moran tackled this bald thrust of purest granite cooled by the eternal snows and then carved by the glacier ice to stark angularity and after a grueling wall climb named it BHRIGU PATTHAR. (Bhrigu's Stone). This climb remains the only one though 2 more British Expeditions have failed on this route.. The North Face which is a blank 800 m granite wall without holds remains unclimbed.

THE OLD AULI FOREST

THE OLD AULI FOREST, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Enroute Auli from Joshimath you cross this old ..old forest which is unlike anything I have seen there are some old willows but mainly you find a jumble of entangled roots and branches which seem to bar your way

Its very different from the type of fauna nearby and just limited to one particular hillside.. (though some similar patches can be found on the Curzon Trail and I have come across some in Nepal too, but nothing like this)..

It instantly reminded me of The Old Forest from The Lord of The Rings It had that same brooding presence straight out of Tolkien's Middle Earth.

(For the uninitiated in J. R. R. Tolkien’s fictional universe of Middle-earth, the Old Forest was a small forested area which lies east of the Shire in Buckland It was one of the few survivors of the primordial forests which covered most of Eriador before the Second Age, and it once was but the northern edge of one immense forest which reached all the way to Fangorn forest.

The trees of the old forest were said to be more alive—or aware—than normal trees. They watched intruders, sometimes dropping branches on them or even grabbing them with roots, and didn't like people much. They swayed when there was no wind, whispered at night, and misled travelers by shifting paths which invariably led deeper into the forest instead of out.)

Meru turns golden during sunrise

Meru turns golden during sunrise, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Mt. Meru'su 6672m
North WALL turns golden during sunrise

Meru peak is situated in the center of Gangotri glacier in Garhwal Himalayas between the famous Shivling & Thalay Sagar, and opposite as well famous group of Bhagirathi Peaks. In fact Meru peak itself doesn't need to be introduced in the alpinist world. It's steep walls have long ago become the testing area for realization of the mountaineering ambitions of the world most famous climbers. And if the main massif summit - the Southern (6,600m) - and the Northern (6,450), are already climbed,

The Central Pillar is known as the Shark's Fin and had defeated all comers including some of the leading aces in today's Climbing fraternity..

Each year since 1987 at least one expedition had tried to get up but to no avail constant rockfall and sweeping overhangs presented formidable odds on this route (over 20 expeditions have failed on this route, last year 4 more tried only 1 succeeded)

The route was finally climbed by the Ace Alpinist Valery Babanov
(though controversy remains whether he climbed the pillar direct or took a sideline to get to the top of the climb )and got him shortlisted for the Piolet D' Or for this amazing solo climb in 2001. He beat a strong team of Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller & Conrad Anker who were also on the mountain that time.

Last year another Australian Expedition also managed to complete this route via the west face Two members achieved new world record for altitude base-jumping in bat suits... . The leader Dr Glen Singleman with Heather Swan leapt down wearing wing-suits from a ledge at 6604 m.(They will do another jump in 2008 this time from Shivling in the Garhwal Himalayas)

In Hindu Mythology Meru is the name of the mountain on which the Gods Live.

The Reclusive Changabang 2

The Reclusive Changabang 2, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

The one night I spent at the base camp 4ft. of new snow fell covering the landscape in a quilt of white. Where there had been black rock(see earlier pic) now only white gleamed.
It made route finding very difficult and concealed deadly crevasses eagerly awaiting a careless step. Often we had to retrace our steps to find the right way to get to Shipton's Col on the shoulder with its nearest neighbour Kalanka, where a Slovenian team was making an attempt on its formidable North Face.