Lakes Of Ladakh IV

Lakes Of Ladakh IV, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

The Village of Korzok rests on the banks of one of the most beautiful lakes in Ladakh.

Tso Moriri's waters are a distinct blue much enhanced by the rich cobalt deposits in the area. It is also famous for the Black Siberian Cranes which fly from Siberia to breed here.

The Climber

The Climber, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Tethered on the brink of Eternity...
On Rock Pillar at the start of the climb of The East Pillar of Shivling in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India

Spacetrucking ~ The Peak Points The Way

Peak Points The Way, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

“Nothing needs to be impossible for you. After all man is six feet taller than the mountain he climbs. Only the will resolute has to be there” — J. B. Auden

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Gangotri III , long exposure shot at twilight with star trails.

Taken during the trek to Auden's Col, which connects the Bhilganga Valley and Rudguira valley in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India.

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Auden's Col (5,400 mtrs) connects Jogin I (6465m) and Gangotri III (6580m) peaks . It also marks the meeting of two glaciers which converge here from opposite sides. One is Khatling glacier and the other one the hanging glacier which descends from Jogin I.

The Col is approachable from Gangotri (which makes an ideal starting point) and one can trek up to Kedarnath from Auden's Col travelling via the Khatling glacier's lateral moraine this joining the two holy spots of Hindu Pilgrimage..(The route from the north is fairly easy but from the south it is decidedly tricky and is only meant for people who have some experience in glacier travel and rudimentary mountaineering skills as a lot of the terrain is usually snowed up)

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The Col is named after Dr. J.B. Auden (who was the elder brother of the poet & playwright W.H. Auden (who dedicated his play : The Ascent of F6 to him)

He joined the Geological Survey of India and had traveled widely in many parts of the Himalaya and the Karakoram.

In October 1935 he was in the Gangotri area of Garhwal with Dr. D.C. Macdonald and three Sherpas.
He returned to the area in 1939 in the company of two porters from Harsil hamlet, he crossed a pass at the head of the Rudugaira valley to the Bhilaganga valley in the south. This is now known as ‘Auden’s Col’ and is not often repeated. , this crossing was at the termination of two months of traveling light, living primitively in tents weighing three kilograms.
The north side of this col was relatively easy-going, but the south side presented some difficulties in crossing the pinnacled ice.

He also explored the Jadh Ganga, Mana Gad and the Lamkhaga valleys on the same trip.

Auden's Other Himalayan Journey’s

•In July 1933 Auden with Captain C.E.C. Gregory completed the survey of the Biafo glacier in Pakistan

•Then in 1934 he was in Nepal to study the effects of the great earthquake which caused havoc in Bihar-Nepal on l5January 1934. With D.N. Wadia, Dr.J.A. Dunn and A.M.N. Ghosh, he traversed large areas of Nepal and published an authentic record of his travels in the Himalayan Ranges.

•Auden’s most well-known trip was to the Shaksgam valley (now in China) in 1937. This was in the company of Eric Shipton, H.W. Tilman and M.A. Spender,( brother of another famous poet). Shipton makes detailed references to their journey in his autobiography while Auden recorded the geological results of the trip including producing the most definitive maps of the enormous Snow Lake region which are still in use today.

Dr. Auden was an Original Member of The Mountain Club of India (1927) which founded the Himalayan Club.

The Buddha To Be.

The Buddha To Be., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

The huge 15mtrs. tall statue of The Maitreya Buddha (The Buddha to be & The Buddha of Compassion) at the Thiksey Monastery in Ladakh.

Built to commerate the visit of the Dalai Lama in 1970 it was made by local artisians and took 4 years to complete, yet it remains the biggest and one of the most beautiful statues of the Maitreya...

On The Trail.....

The twin Peaks of Shivling with the East Pillar in front seems close enough to touch but as usual its foreshortening at work.. Very difficult to get the true scale of these mighty peaks..

There is an old saying (which is specially true in the mountains) : DO NOT MISTAKE A CLEAR VIEW FOR A SHORT DISTANCE ...

The peak is still around 20 miles away as the crow flies and the trail climbing up from Gaumukh (the once traditional source of the Ganga but now retreated higher) to the meadows of Tapovan winds through some of the most dramatic scenery .. huge boulders, loose rocky hillsides and finally over the lateral moraines of the Gangotri glacier itself, which is covered with numerous glaciated boulders and crevasses and mainly made up of shattered rock

The whole locale looks something like Mordor out of LOTR...

Everywhere destructive forces are at work, with nary a sign of anything growing .. The shale and slate moraines are the remains of boulders crushed by the most erosive force in the world - a glacier - a slow moving river of ice, which decimates everything even mountains as it inexorably tumbles down to the valley floor below..

All this time Shivling looms on the right, until it passes out of view and you begin a steep ascent which finally culminates at the meadows of Tapovan, the contrast to the trail is total, here verdant hillsides, lichen covered rocks and wild flowers in profusion and it's such a joy to see things growing again and a grand vista of mighty peaks come into view those peaks which make up the great crique of the Gangotri Group of Peaks.. (Bhagirathi, Karchakund, Sumeru, Kedar Dome, Shivling, Meru, Bhrigupanth, Thalay Sagar)

The view alone is worth the toil of the trail...

Kang Rinpoche: Precious Snow Mountain

Kang Rinpoche: Precious Snow Mountain, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Mt. Kailash *(South Face)* from Diaraphuk.

Though other westerners like the Jesuit priest Desideri & in the early part of the 1800's amp; William Moorcroft (with Hyder Jung Herseay) had put Mt. Kailash on the map one of the first westerners to measure it was Henry Strachey, a lieutenant in the 66th Bengal Native Infantry and belonging to one of the most outstanding and influential British families who made their mark in Brtish India.
During the hot weather of 1846 ostensibly on sick leave but determined to visit the holy lake Mansarovar and unfettered by a new government ban on travel to Tibet he made his way to Milam and with the assistance of Deb SIngh Rawat (grand father of Nain Singh Rawat the first explorer Pandit) he crossed over the Lampiya Dhura Pass disguised as a Hindu pilgrim. Traveling fast and keeping off well known paths and passes he reached the south west corner of Rakas Tal in 5 days after crossing the border.
After measuring the flow rates of both the Rakas Tal and Mansarovar, his attention was taken up by the "most beautiful peak he had ever seen. " A King Of Mountains, full of majesty which he estimated to be 21,000 feet high ... This clandestine trip won him the Patrons Gold Medal of The Royal Geographic Society as well as a place in the British Mission to Ladakh.

In 1848 it was the turn of his younger brother Richard Strachey, who was serving as an Engineer in the Bombay Army. Richard was perhaps the most talented of the 5 generation of Strachey's who served in India. He also started his clandestine visit from Kumaon again with the help of Deb Singh Rawat, taking as his guide his son Mani Singh Rawat. After confirming his brothers figures and drainage of the holy lakes he turned his attention to establishing the position and height of Kailash , later topographical figures showed that his figure of 22,000 ft to be just 28 feet on the low side.

The Midnight Special

Midnight Special, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

A Beacon of Light The Magnificient Potala Palace པོ་ཏ་ལ lit up in the Lhasa Night, Tibet.

Perched upon Marpo Ri hill, 130 meters above the Lhasa valley, the Potala Palace rises a further 170 meters and is the greatest monumental structure in all of Tibet.

Early legends concerning the rocky hill tell of a sacred cave, considered to be the dwelling place of the Bodhisattva Chenresi (Avilokiteshvara), that was used as a meditation retreat by Emperor Songtsen Gampo in the seventh century AD.

In 637 Songtsen Gampo built a palace on the hill. This structure stood until the seventeenth century, when it was incorporated into the foundations of the greater buildings still standing today.

Construction of the present palace began in 1645 during the reign of the fifth Dalai Lama and by 1648 the Potrang Karpo, or White Palace, was completed. The Potrang Marpo, or Red Palace, was added between 1690 and 1694; its construction required the labors of more than 7000 workers and 1500 artists and craftsman.

In 1922 the 13th Dalai Lama renovated many chapels and assembly halls in the White Palace and added two stories to the Red Palace. The Potala Palace was only slightly damaged during the Tibetan uprising against the invading Chinese in 1959. Unlike most other Tibetan religious structures, it was not sacked by the Red Guards during the 1960s and 1970s, apparently through the personal intervention of Chou En Lai. As a result, all the chapels and their artifacts are very well preserved.

From as early as the eleventh century the palace was called Potala. This name probably derives from Mt. Potala, the mythological mountain abode of the Bodhisattva Chenresi (Avilokiteshvara / Kuan Yin) in southern India. The Emperor Songtsen Gampo had been regarded as an incarnation of Chenresi. Given that he founded the Potala, it seems likely that the hilltop palace of Lhasa took on the name of the Indian sacred mountain. The Potala Palace is an immense structure, its interior space being in excess of 130,000 square meters. Fulfilling numerous functions, the Potala was first and foremost the residence of the Dalai Lama and his large staff. In addition, it was the seat of Tibetan government, where all ceremonies of state were held; it housed a school for religious training of monks and administrators; and it was one of Tibet's major pilgrimage destinations because of the tombs of past Dalai Lamas. Within the White Palace are two small chapels, the Phakpa Lhakhang and the Chogyal Drubphuk; dating from the seventh century, these chapels are the oldest surviving structures on the hill and also the most sacred. The Potala's most venerated statue, the Arya Lokeshvara, is housed inside the Phapka Lhakhang, and it draws thousands of Tibetan pilgrims each day.

Day's End.

Day's End., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Sunset on Karchakund's (6612 mtrs) North Face as seen from the Trek to Shivling's Base Camp in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India.

Sundervan (4 700mtrs) usually serves as base camp for teams attempting the mountain and is reached by by crossing the Ghanohim Glacier from the Gangotri Glacier.

The north ridge of this mountain is made up of 5 peaks popularly referred to as "The Five Pinnacles" This ridge has been attempted the most and offers some high quality mixed climbing (rock: Alpine VI, A1 and ice up to Scottish V grade)on the ridge between 5000mtrs and 6000mtrs, with some interesting pitches on each of the five pinnacles.

• First Ascent & First Alpine Style Ascent

Karchakund was first climbed by a Japanese Team in 1980, after failing on the north ridge they put two parties on the summit via the west ridge using fixed rope.

In 1987 A British Team comprising Robin, Beadle, Bobby Gilbert and Rob Tesidder and Pete Scott, climbed all 5 pinnacles in Alpine Style over 5 &1/2 days without fixed camps or rope.

Since then Karchakund has seen many ascents as it is specially popular with Indian Teams specially from Bengal who face off regularly against this beautiful mountain each year

Sunset Colors

Sunset Colors, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

The summit pyramid of Bhrigupanth (6772m) juts out of the clouds to catch the lingering evening light as viewed from near Camp 2 on Shivling.

Bhrigupanth looks completely different from this side as compared to that when viewed from Kedar Taal.

Bhrigupanth's first ascent was made relatively late and it bears the distinction of having been first climbed by a Joint Indo- American Women's Team (led by the ace American climber Arlene Bum) only in 1980.

Beautiful Dawn

Beautiful Dawn, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Dawn on Karchakund's (6612 mtrs) North Face as seen from the Gangotri Glacier in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India.
Sundervan (4 700mtrs) usually serves as base camp for teams attempting the mountain and is reached by by crossing the Ghanohim Glacier from the Gangotri Glacier.

The north ridge of this mountain is made up of 5 peaks popularly referred to as "The Five Pinnacles" This ridge has been attempted the most and offers some high quality mixed climbing (rock: Alpine VI, A1 and ice up to Scottish V grade)on the ridge between 5000mtrs and 6000mtrs, with some interesting pitches on each of the five pinnacles.


First Ascent & First Alpine Style Ascent

Karchakund was first climbed by a Japanese Team in 1980, after failing on the north ridge they put two parties on the summit via the west ridge using fixed rope.

In 1987 A British Team comprising Robin, Beadle, Bobby Gilbert and Rob Tesidder and Pete Scott, climbed all 5 pinnacles in Alpine Style over 5 &1/2 days without fixed camps or rope.

Since then Karchakund has seen many ascents as it is specially popular with Indian Teams specially from Bengal who face off regularly against this beautiful mountain each year.

Electric Dawn

Electric Dawn, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Sumeru Parvat 6380 mtrs is the 3rd mountain from Bhigrupanth and the summit pyramid is striking similar to that of Mt. Kailash in Tibet & thus its name Sumeru which according to Hindu Myth is where Indra's Heaven is Located and where the Gods Reside.

Hardly any post processing apart from upping the saturation and levels. Just a long exposure shot to get the effect on the clouds.

The Silver Mountain

Mt Dunagiri at Night.

At 7066 mtrs. It makes the magic +7000mtrs club and for this reason is quite a popular climbing destination (that is not to say that its easy).

Dunagiri was first climbed on July 5, 1939 by the Swiss climbers André Roch, F. Steuri, and D. Zogg, via the southwest ridge as part of their first Garhwal expedition sponsored by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research(2 more would follow in later years spanning the War and Andre Roch traveled on all three

This expedition would bag some notable climbs in the Uttarakhand area including Exploration of the Ramani glacier basic, first ascent of Dunagiri (7066 m), Rataban (Bloody Arrow) (6156 m), Ghori Parbat (6714 m). Last but not the least there was a notable attempt on Chaukhamba (7138 m).The main duty of the expedition was map making and in this they created a map on a scale of 1:150,000, is centered on Nanda Devi is still used due to its accuracy.

The Swiss returned to the Garhwal once again in 1947 & 1950 to complete the work started by this expedition and it remains one of the most successful ones ever to have left Switzerland (not to take anything away from their laudable 1952 Everest Expeditions of which Roche was part) & their later success on Lhotse.)
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There is also the fascinating story of Roche giving his compass on his last expedition to a Hindu Sadhu Baba he met living in a cave near Gangotri with the instructions to give the compass to the next person who came climbing in the region.. the compass changed hands 7 times and finally ended up in the possession of Harish Kapadia (The noted Indian Explorer and Mountaineer where it remains).

In 1975, Joe Tasker and Dick Renshaw drove a ramshackle van from the UK to Delhi and embarked on a notable climb which quickly became the stuff of lore in mountain climbing circles due to their choice of route and the fact that they climbed alpine style without a big expedition (which were the norm in the 70-'s)

The mountain they chose was DUNAGIRI and they climbed a particularly difficult route on the southeast buttress in the process setting a significant milestone for alpine-style climbing in the Himalayas.

(Dick Renshaw was also a team member alongwith Chris Bonnington of Peter Broadman & Joe Tasker on their 1986 Everest Pinnacles Expedition where he suffered a minor heart attack and thus had to return home , later both Broadman & Tasker would be lost somewhere high up on the mountains first pinnacle).

Shivas Matted Locks.

Shiva's Matted Locks., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Shiva's statue as the Mahayogi on the banks of the Ganga in the night with Orion shining bright.

Rishikesh: Is named after the Matted Locks of Shiva (thus he is also known as Jatadhari as per Hindu Myths he used these locks of hair (Jata) to dissipate the force of Ganges as it descended to the Earth from the heavens o to make whole earth pious, fertile and wash out the sins of humans. For Hindus in India, the Ganga is not just a river but a mother, a goddess, a tradition, a culture and much more. Another name for Shiva in connection with the Ganga is Gaṅgādhara ("Bearer of the river Gaṅgā"))

Rishikesh is where the now fully formed Ganga first emerges from the embrace of the Himalayan Mountains and meets the Great Gangetic Plains (The Terai). The young bubbling river gives way to the meandering river which irrigates most of the Northern Indian Plains all the way to its eventual drainage almost 2500 kms away in the Bay of Bengal

The Story of the descent of Ganga

Legends associated with the river Ganga