In The Valley of Flowers Uttarkhand, India.

In The Valley of Flowers Uttarkhand, India., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

In 1982, the smallest national park in the Himalayas was created to protect the catchment area of the Pushpavati River and Bhayandar Valley.. This stream follows the contours of the steep valley which leads to Hemkunt Sahib, and is the constant companion of the pilgrims who trudge upward on the footpath.

The first westerner to enter the head of the valley was Edmund Smythe a noted "Shikari" & one of the earliest members of the Alpine Club. Among his other contribution for prosterity was the recruitment of the "Pandits"- Indian Explorers from the valley of Johar & Niti who would fill in nearly 100,000 sq kms of previously unmapped terrain in Nepal, Tibet & China.

He was appointed the first Inspector of the Kumaon Circle Public Instruction Department in 1861, he opened up a long disused pass between Niti & Badrinath, at the head of the Bhayundur Valley.

British mountaineers were to rediscover this same valley in 1931 . Frank S. Smythe passed through in 1931 after a successful first ascent of Kamet looking for a place to recuperate he and his team literally stumbled across this little piece of heaven & named it The Valley of Flowers

He was awed by the variety of wildflowers growing there, and returned in 1937 to collect more than two hundred botanical species. His 1938 book entitled The Valley of Flowers brought this remote Himalayan meadow to the attention of the world. In 1998 along with the nearby Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve it was named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO

The locals, of course, always knew of the existence of the valley, and believed that it was inhabited by fairies.

The Valley floor is a glacial corridor, eight kilometres in length and two kilometres in width during which it slopes from almost 3,500 metres above sea level up to 4,000 metres. True to its name, the Valley is carpeted with wildflowers during the monsoon season.

FLORA : Of the many species which coexist in this unique ecosystem, are

•Brahmakamal: (Bhrama – The creator God in the Hindu Trinity, kamal= lotus)
•The Cobra Lily(also found in Sikkim)
•The extremely rare Himalayan Blue Poppy native to the region,
•The uncommon varieties of primula and orchid which bloom during June, and
•The impatiens, potentillas, and campanulas which paint the valley pink, red, and purple during July and August.

A stone path meanders among the flowers and across streams. The flowers grow so tall that leaving the path is difficult.

Few visitors continue beyond the first one or two kilometres inside the Valley but a hardy few go in search of a grave rumoured to be there among the flowers.

(In 1939, Joan Margaret Legge, a botanist from the Kew Botanical garden in London, was collecting floral specimens in the Valley when she fell to her death. A memorial was erected in her honour. Etched in English and Hindi into the white marble of the gravestone is a line from Psalm 121 which reads "I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills from whence commeth my help."

Folklore:
Traditionally the Valley of Flowers was used by local shepherds for grazing their flocks. But in the minds of many it has a greater significance. The myths told about the valley by locals and visitors paint a picture as evocative as the flowering that is the Valley's namesake.

There are stories about faeries who carry off anyone who wanders into their domain. There are other stories about flowers in the Valley with a fragrance potent enough to make anyone who inhales it faint away.

In Hindu mythology the Valley was created when the gods showered flowers down from heaven. Since then, so the local people say, the Valley has been host to great sages who attained enlightenment while meditating there.

In the last decade I've made 2 trips to the valley and each visit was like descending into a mythical world (could have been Tolkien's Middle Earth or Alice's Wonderland)

The valley is always covered in mist which hangs low barely skimming the riotous colours of the wild flowers which carpet the landscape. I’ve never seen so many flowers grow in one place even in nurseries..

Granite Walls of Bhrigu Patthar

Granite Walls of Bhrigu Patthar, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Sunrise on the subsidiary peaks of Bhrigu Parvat as viewed from Chirabasa, in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India.. Chirbasa peak on extreme left . Bhrigu Parvat is named after Bhrigu the ascetic from Indian Mythology (one of the seven maharishis).

Bhrigu Parvat 6041
The peak is situated near Manda group and was approached from Kedar Kharak. An Indian Team from Calcutta made the last known attempt on the main peak in 2002

Quite close to the main climbing playground of the Gangotri region this gigantic rock obelisk repulsed J.B Auden on his surveying reconnaissance in 1935.

In 1991 the British Bhrigupanth Expedition led by Martin Moran tackled this bald thrust of purest granite cooled by the eternal snows and then carved by the glacier ice to stark angularity and after a grueling wall climb named it BHRIGU PATTHAR. (Bhrigu's Stone). This climb remains the only one though 2 more British Expeditions have failed on this route.. The North Face which is a blank 800 m granite wall without holds remains unclimbed.

THE OLD AULI FOREST

THE OLD AULI FOREST, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Enroute Auli from Joshimath you cross this old ..old forest which is unlike anything I have seen there are some old willows but mainly you find a jumble of entangled roots and branches which seem to bar your way

Its very different from the type of fauna nearby and just limited to one particular hillside.. (though some similar patches can be found on the Curzon Trail and I have come across some in Nepal too, but nothing like this)..

It instantly reminded me of The Old Forest from The Lord of The Rings It had that same brooding presence straight out of Tolkien's Middle Earth.

(For the uninitiated in J. R. R. Tolkien’s fictional universe of Middle-earth, the Old Forest was a small forested area which lies east of the Shire in Buckland It was one of the few survivors of the primordial forests which covered most of Eriador before the Second Age, and it once was but the northern edge of one immense forest which reached all the way to Fangorn forest.

The trees of the old forest were said to be more alive—or aware—than normal trees. They watched intruders, sometimes dropping branches on them or even grabbing them with roots, and didn't like people much. They swayed when there was no wind, whispered at night, and misled travelers by shifting paths which invariably led deeper into the forest instead of out.)

Even Cowbells Get The Blues...

Even Cowbells Get The Blues..., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

A fashion accessory that no self respecting Yak or Dzo will be seen without..

Meru turns golden during sunrise

Meru turns golden during sunrise, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Mt. Meru'su 6672m
North WALL turns golden during sunrise

Meru peak is situated in the center of Gangotri glacier in Garhwal Himalayas between the famous Shivling & Thalay Sagar, and opposite as well famous group of Bhagirathi Peaks. In fact Meru peak itself doesn't need to be introduced in the alpinist world. It's steep walls have long ago become the testing area for realization of the mountaineering ambitions of the world most famous climbers. And if the main massif summit - the Southern (6,600m) - and the Northern (6,450), are already climbed,

The Central Pillar is known as the Shark's Fin and had defeated all comers including some of the leading aces in today's Climbing fraternity..

Each year since 1987 at least one expedition had tried to get up but to no avail constant rockfall and sweeping overhangs presented formidable odds on this route (over 20 expeditions have failed on this route, last year 4 more tried only 1 succeeded)

The route was finally climbed by the Ace Alpinist Valery Babanov
(though controversy remains whether he climbed the pillar direct or took a sideline to get to the top of the climb )and got him shortlisted for the Piolet D' Or for this amazing solo climb in 2001. He beat a strong team of Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller & Conrad Anker who were also on the mountain that time.

Last year another Australian Expedition also managed to complete this route via the west face Two members achieved new world record for altitude base-jumping in bat suits... . The leader Dr Glen Singleman with Heather Swan leapt down wearing wing-suits from a ledge at 6604 m.(They will do another jump in 2008 this time from Shivling in the Garhwal Himalayas)

In Hindu Mythology Meru is the name of the mountain on which the Gods Live.

Last Light on the West Ridge of Mt. Pandim.(6191 mtrs)

Last Light on the West Ridge of Mt. Pandim.(6191 mtrs), originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

The West Ridge is lit up with Alpenglow as another day sets over Mt. Pandim, viewed from the huts at Zemathang and the terminal moraine of the Onglakhing Glacier. This is the base for climbing attempts on Pandim. It also marks the beginning of the climb up the moraine to Samiti Lake (4200m) the sacred source of the Prek River..



Early Explorers:

John Claude White: White traveled extensively in Sikkim and Bhutan. He was mainly responsible for opening up roads and bridges which made access easier for later explorers. In 1890 he crossed the Goecha La to the Talung Glacier south-east of Kanchenjunga and followed the Talung valley to the Tista, being probably the first European to investigate the gorges between Pandim and the Simvu group.”

The first Europeans to come to this area to climb were Von Dechy the Hungarian Mountaineer in 1879, who fell ill and so little climbing or exploration was done.

He was followed by the Englishman W.W. Graham. *(his accounts of his climbing exploits were so full of discrepancies that they have been a source of argument to this day. He reportedly claimed climbing Kabru, an 18000 ft peak, though he was forced to return to Darjeeling after only a week, of having set oout from Darjeeling not enough time to get to the mountain let alone climb it.)

Douglas Freshfield set out with his party in 1899. He was to be the first mountaineer to trek in a circle around Khangchendzonga, from the North. He was also the first mountaineer to examine the great western face of Khangchendzonga, rising from the Khangchendzonga Glacier.

He also traveled to Green Lakes along with the famous Italian photographer Vittorio Sella’ who had photographed Siniolchu from Zemu Valley. Freshfield has described Siniolchu as “The Most Superb Triumph of Mountain Architecture and The Most Beautiful Snow Mountain in the World”

His travels resulted in one of the classic books in mountaineering literature
Round Kangchenjunga: A Narrative of Mountain Travel and Exploration,

He always traveled with two Swiss Alpine Guides and the whole trip which was made along with a party of 60 including 7 Europeans & the rest local Coolie's cost him a then lordly sum of 200 Pounds

When he finally arrived safely in 1899,at Dzongri after 8 weeks , he lit a big bonfire, which was visible as far as Darjeeling. The Governor of Bengal ordered 10 Gun Salute to be fired in his honour.



The modern trek routes followed by thousands today are the same routes pioneered by Freshfield and though many things have changed the mountains still have the same allure and like sirens call out to your soul.

Ridges after Ridges of the Singilla Range

Ridges after Ridges of the Singilla Range, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Perched on a hillside lies the idyllic village of Tshokha in Sikkim, It has a small gompa and a small oval lake and reminded me the first time I visited of the village of Nako in Spiti HP.. Both seemed eerily familiar.. Had a hearty breakfast here and lolled around for a rest day here before continuing on with the trek. It was one of the most pleasant of days without too much cloud cover, so the views to be had were excellent on all sides.

A golden sunset on placid Pehwa Lake in Pokhara Nepal.

A golden sunset on placid Pehwa Lake in Pokhara Nepal., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

This beautiful lake 4.4 sq km lake is the pearl in Pokhara's necklace, in the middle sits an island with a temple.. nothing better than spending an afternoon boating and a dekkho of the temple..

The sunsets are stunning too with Annapurna, Dhaulagiri & Machuphucharre (Fish Tail) all 7000- 8,000 mtrs looming in the distant horizon.

Phewa Lake is also used for commercial fishing. The tourist area is along the north shore of the lake (Lake Side and Dam Side). It is mainly made up of little shops, little hotels, restaurants and bars.
On a hill overlooking Phewa Tal from the south is the World Peace Stupa (at 1,113 m) it is built by the same Japanese Organization which built the Shanti Stupa in Leh and a similar one in Rajagiri & Darjeeling.

The relative calm I enjoyed here on my first visit in 1998 was something I will always remember (of course these days it is much more commercial and touristy

This beautiful region is now under siege mainly due to the Maoist trouble and the increasing popularity of the Annapurna Trek Circuit, every year the number of people coming here increases and this puts increasing burden on this fragile ecosystem with which it is struggling to cope.

With its dwindling natural resources you now see many previously pristine trails littered with the detritus of the Huge Trekking Groups and increasing deforestation as more firewood the traditional source of fuel is burned.

The Reclusive Changabang 2

The Reclusive Changabang 2, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

The one night I spent at the base camp 4ft. of new snow fell covering the landscape in a quilt of white. Where there had been black rock(see earlier pic) now only white gleamed.
It made route finding very difficult and concealed deadly crevasses eagerly awaiting a careless step. Often we had to retrace our steps to find the right way to get to Shipton's Col on the shoulder with its nearest neighbour Kalanka, where a Slovenian team was making an attempt on its formidable North Face.

The Reclusive Changabang 6,864 m (22,520 ft)

The Reclusive Changabang 6,864 m (22,520 ft), originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Changabang (THE SHINING MOUNTAIN)

Elevation 6,864 m (22,520 ft)
Location Garhwal Division, Uttarakhand, India
Range Garhwal Himalaya
Prominence circa 300 m (1000 ft)
Coordinates 30°29′N, 80°01′E
First ascent June 4, 1974 by Indo British Team under Chris Bonington.
Easiest route Southeast Face/East Ridge (snow/ice climb)

It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary Changabang was first brought to prominence by that legendary explorer and climber Eric Shipton, who was very impressed by the Grey granite walls when he made it as far as a col which is now named after him and joins the mountain with its neighbor Kalanka

One has to cross the Rahmani Glaier to reach the Shipton Col and the Upper Bhagni Glacier establishing camp at the head of the Changabang Glacier.

Though it does not have a high topographic prominence, being slightly lower than its near neighbor Kalanka to the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity its steep rocky profile has acted as a siren song on climbers for the last 100 years & has inspired some of the most compelling mountaineering books of our times

It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings and have become test pieces (like the North Face of the Eiger) for climbers to pit their skills against as reaching the summit entails climbing the white ice, green ice and mixed rock sections in between.

The North Face of Changabang rises in an impressive steep wall peppered with a liberal amount of snow and ice. In places the ice looks white, friendly and probably easy to climb. In other areas, though, a shiny bluish -green reflection (which gives it the name SHINING MOUNTAIN) is hard, uncompromising shields which appear to be stuck to near vertical ground.

It was first climbed on June 4, 1974 by a mixed (Indo - British) team Tashi Chewang, Balwant Sandhu, Chris Bonington, Martin Boysen, Dougal Haston, Doug Scott via the Southeast Face, leading to the East Ridge.
Doug Scott called it the hardest test for sustained difficulty on any mountain in the Himalayas.
This is the "so called" easiest route on the mountain, and one of the few that is primarily a snow/ice climb,

Other notable ascents include some of the hardest climbs ever done in the Himalaya.

The first of these is the ascent

Joe Tasker and Pete Boardman made their generation-inspiring 1976 ascent of Changabang’s West Face. The route took over 25 days to ascend, and their use of big wall climbing techniques to overcome the serious, sustained difficulties was revolutionary step forward in Alpine Climbing .
Peter Broadmans book THE SHINING MOUNTAIN is a classic of the genre and describes this climb as the hardest he had undertaken along with his climbing partner Joe Tasker.



In 1997, Andy Cave and Brendan Murphy made the first ascent of the North Face of Changabang, a 1,600 m (5,250 ft) route involving steep, sustained ice, mixed, and rock climbing.

Unfortunately Murphy was hit by an avalanche and swept off the face to his death on the descent (Mick Fowler & Steve Sustad were also part of the same team though they were a day behind the climbers when all 4 of them teamed up to descend together because of the bad weather.)

With Andy Cave & Mick fowler In their respective books we have two distinctive views on one of the greatest Himalayan adventures of the 1990s, the ascent of Changabang’s north face, as well as a wealth of other milestone routes from Fowler and a fascinating glimpse of Andy Cave’s background as a miner-turned-academic and mountain guide. Cave’s book, Learning to Breathe, is both unusual and engaging, giving an incisive view of hardship and tragedy from the Himalaya to the Yorkshire pit community of his youth.

Fowler’s underplayed and wry tales from high, uncomfortable places" On Thin Ice" (which I think even surpasses his first work, Vertical Pleasure). It is interesting to note that Changabang, which plays a central role in both books by two of the most promising Alpinists of the present generation, also provided a defining moment in the careers of Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker,

On October 12, 2006, two Mexican climbers, Andrés Delgado and Alfonso de la Parra, were successful in climbing Changabang by a new route.

However, while descending, they encountered a storm and have been reported missing since October 15, when they made a contact via satellite phone. India put on a rescue effort despite harsh weather conditions and by Oct the search for them had been canceled due to inclement weather.