Thursday, April 16, 2009

Kang Rinpoche: Precious Snow Mountain

Mt. Kailash *(South Face)* from Diaraphuk.

Though other westerners like the Jesuit priest Desideri & in the early part of the 1800's amp; William Moorcroft (with Hyder Jung Herseay) had put Mt. Kailash on the map one of the first westerners to measure it was Henry Strachey, a lieutenant in the 66th Bengal Native Infantry and belonging to one of the most outstanding and influential British families who made their mark in Brtish India.
During the hot weather of 1846 ostensibly on sick leave but determined to visit the holy lake Mansarovar and unfettered by a new government ban on travel to Tibet he made his way to Milam and with the assistance of Deb SIngh Rawat (grand father of Nain Singh Rawat the first explorer Pandit) he crossed over the Lampiya Dhura Pass disguised as a Hindu pilgrim. Traveling fast and keeping off well known paths and passes he reached the south west corner of Rakas Tal in 5 days after crossing the border.
After measuring the flow rates of both the Rakas Tal and Mansarovar, his attention was taken up by the "most beautiful peak he had ever seen. " A King Of Mountains, full of majesty which he estimated to be 21,000 feet high ... This clandestine trip won him the Patrons Gold Medal of The Royal Geographic Society as well as a place in the British Mission to Ladakh.

In 1848 it was the turn of his younger brother Richard Strachey, who was serving as an Engineer in the Bombay Army. Richard was perhaps the most talented of the 5 generation of Strachey's who served in India. He also started his clandestine visit from Kumaon again with the help of Deb Singh Rawat, taking as his guide his son Mani Singh Rawat. After confirming his brothers figures and drainage of the holy lakes he turned his attention to establishing the position and height of Kailash , later topographical figures showed that his figure of 22,000 ft to be just 28 feet on the low side.

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

The Midnight Special


Midnight Special, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.


A Beacon of Light The Magnificient Potala Palace པོ་ཏ་ལ lit up in the Lhasa Night, Tibet.

Perched upon Marpo Ri hill, 130 meters above the Lhasa valley, the Potala Palace rises a further 170 meters and is the greatest monumental structure in all of Tibet.

Early legends concerning the rocky hill tell of a sacred cave, considered to be the dwelling place of the Bodhisattva Chenresi (Avilokiteshvara), that was used as a meditation retreat by Emperor Songtsen Gampo in the seventh century AD.

In 637 Songtsen Gampo built a palace on the hill. This structure stood until the seventeenth century, when it was incorporated into the foundations of the greater buildings still standing today.

Construction of the present palace began in 1645 during the reign of the fifth Dalai Lama and by 1648 the Potrang Karpo, or White Palace, was completed. The Potrang Marpo, or Red Palace, was added between 1690 and 1694; its construction required the labors of more than 7000 workers and 1500 artists and craftsman.

In 1922 the 13th Dalai Lama renovated many chapels and assembly halls in the White Palace and added two stories to the Red Palace. The Potala Palace was only slightly damaged during the Tibetan uprising against the invading Chinese in 1959. Unlike most other Tibetan religious structures, it was not sacked by the Red Guards during the 1960s and 1970s, apparently through the personal intervention of Chou En Lai. As a result, all the chapels and their artifacts are very well preserved.

From as early as the eleventh century the palace was called Potala. This name probably derives from Mt. Potala, the mythological mountain abode of the Bodhisattva Chenresi (Avilokiteshvara / Kuan Yin) in southern India. The Emperor Songtsen Gampo had been regarded as an incarnation of Chenresi. Given that he founded the Potala, it seems likely that the hilltop palace of Lhasa took on the name of the Indian sacred mountain. The Potala Palace is an immense structure, its interior space being in excess of 130,000 square meters. Fulfilling numerous functions, the Potala was first and foremost the residence of the Dalai Lama and his large staff. In addition, it was the seat of Tibetan government, where all ceremonies of state were held; it housed a school for religious training of monks and administrators; and it was one of Tibet's major pilgrimage destinations because of the tombs of past Dalai Lamas. Within the White Palace are two small chapels, the Phakpa Lhakhang and the Chogyal Drubphuk; dating from the seventh century, these chapels are the oldest surviving structures on the hill and also the most sacred. The Potala's most venerated statue, the Arya Lokeshvara, is housed inside the Phapka Lhakhang, and it draws thousands of Tibetan pilgrims each day.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Day's End.


Day's End., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.


Sunset on Karchakund's (6612 mtrs) North Face as seen from the Trek to Shivling's Base Camp in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India.

Sundervan (4 700mtrs) usually serves as base camp for teams attempting the mountain and is reached by by crossing the Ghanohim Glacier from the Gangotri Glacier.

The north ridge of this mountain is made up of 5 peaks popularly referred to as "The Five Pinnacles" This ridge has been attempted the most and offers some high quality mixed climbing (rock: Alpine VI, A1 and ice up to Scottish V grade)on the ridge between 5000mtrs and 6000mtrs, with some interesting pitches on each of the five pinnacles.


  • First Ascent & First Alpine Style Ascent


Karchakund was first climbed by a Japanese Team in 1980, after failing on the north ridge they put two parties on the summit via the west ridge using fixed rope.

In 1987 A British Team comprising Robin, Beadle, Bobby Gilbert and Rob Tesidder and Pete Scott, climbed all 5 pinnacles in Alpine Style over 5 &1/2 days without fixed camps or rope.

Since then Karchakund has seen many ascents as it is specially popular with Indian Teams specially from Bengal who face off regularly against this beautiful mountain each year

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Sunset Colors


Sunset Colors, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.


The summit pyramid of Bhrigupanth (6772m) juts out of the clouds to catch the lingering evening light as viewed from near Camp 2 on Shivling.

Bhrigupanth looks completely different from this side as compared to that when viewed from Kedar Taal.

Bhrigupanth's first ascent was made relatively late and it bears the distinction of having been first climbed by a Joint Indo- American Women's Team (led by the ace American climber Arlene Bum) only in 1980.

Monday, March 2, 2009

Beautiful Dawn


Beautiful Dawn, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.
Dawn on Karchakund's (6612 mtrs) North Face as seen from the Gangotri Glacier in the Garhwal Himal, Uttarakhand India.
Sundervan (4 700mtrs) usually serves as base camp for teams attempting the mountain and is reached by by crossing the Ghanohim Glacier from the Gangotri Glacier.

The north ridge of this mountain is made up of 5 peaks popularly referred to as "The Five Pinnacles" This ridge has been attempted the most and offers some high quality mixed climbing (rock: Alpine VI, A1 and ice up to Scottish V grade)on the ridge between 5000mtrs and 6000mtrs, with some interesting pitches on each of the five pinnacles.


First Ascent & First Alpine Style Ascent

Karchakund
was first climbed by a Japanese Team in 1980, after failing on the north ridge they put two parties on the summit via the west ridge using fixed rope.

In 1987 A British Team comprising Robin, Beadle, Bobby Gilbert and Rob Tesidder and Pete Scott, climbed all 5 pinnacles in Alpine Style over 5 &1/2 days without fixed camps or rope.

Since then Karchakund has seen many ascents as it is specially popular with Indian Teams specially from Bengal who face off regularly against this beautiful mountain each year.

Friday, February 20, 2009

Electric Dawn


Electric Dawn, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.


Sumeru Parvat 6380 mtrs is the 3rd mountain from Bhigrupanth and the summit pyramid is striking similar to that of Mt. Kailash in Tibet & thus its name Sumeru which according to Hindu Myth is where Indra's Heaven is Located and where the Gods Reside.

Hardly any post processing apart from upping the saturation and levels. Just a long exposure shot to get the effect on the clouds.

Monday, January 19, 2009

The Silver Mountain

The Silver Mountain

Mt Dunagiri at Night.

At 7066 mtrs. It makes the magic +7000mtrs club and for this reason is quite a popular climbing destination (that is not to say that its easy).

Dunagiri was first climbed on July 5, 1939 by the Swiss climbers André Roch, F. Steuri, and D. Zogg, via the southwest ridge as part of their first Garhwal expedition sponsored by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research(2 more would follow in later years spanning the War and Andre Roch traveled on all three

This expedition would bag some notable climbs in the Uttarakhand area including Exploration of the Ramani glacier basic, first ascent of Dunagiri (7066 m), Rataban (Bloody Arrow) (6156 m), Ghori Parbat (6714 m). Last but not the least there was a notable attempt on Chaukhamba (7138 m).The main duty of the expedition was map making and in this they created a map on a scale of 1:150,000, is centered on Nanda Devi is still used due to its accuracy.

The Swiss returned to the Garhwal once again in 1947 & 1950 to complete the work started by this expedition and it remains one of the most successful ones ever to have left Switzerland (not to take anything away from their laudable 1952 Everest Expeditions of which Roche was part) & their later success on Lhotse.)
~~

There is also the fascinating story of Roche giving his compass on his last expedition to a Hindu Sadhu Baba he met living in a cave near Gangotri with the instructions to give the compass to the next person who came climbing in the region.. the compass changed hands 7 times and finally ended up in the possession of Harish Kapadia (The noted Indian Explorer and Mountaineer where it remains).

In 1975, Joe Tasker and Dick Renshaw drove a ramshackle van from the UK to Delhi and embarked on a notable climb which quickly became the stuff of lore in mountain climbing circles due to their choice of route and the fact that they climbed alpine style without a big expedition (which were the norm in the 70-'s)

The mountain they chose was DUNAGIRI and they climbed a particularly difficult route on the southeast buttress in the process setting a significant milestone for alpine-style climbing in the Himalayas.

(Dick Renshaw was also a team member alongwith Chris Bonnington of Peter Broadman & Joe Tasker on their 1986 Everest Pinnacles Expedition where he suffered a minor heart attack and thus had to return home , later both Broadman & Tasker would be lost somewhere high up on the mountains first pinnacle).

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Shivas Matted Locks.



Shiva's statue as the Mahayogi on the banks of the Ganga in the night with Orion shining bright.

Rishikesh
: Is named after the Matted Locks of Shiva (thus he is also known as Jatadhari as per Hindu Myths he used these locks of hair (Jata) to dissipate the force of Ganges as it descended to the Earth from the heavens o to make whole earth pious, fertile and wash out the sins of humans. For Hindus in India, the Ganga is not just a river but a mother, a goddess, a tradition, a culture and much more. Another name for Shiva in connection with the Ganga is Gaṅgādhara ("Bearer of the river Gaṅgā"))

Rishikesh is where the now fully formed Ganga first emerges from the embrace of the Himalayan Mountains and meets the Great Gangetic Plains (The Terai). The young bubbling river gives way to the meandering river which irrigates most of the Northern Indian Plains all the way to its eventual drainage almost 2500 kms away in the Bay of Bengal

The Story of the descent of Ganga

Legends associated with the river Ganga

Om Namah Shivaye!!

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

The Center of The World.

There is a old legend of Asia, of a great sacred mountain which is the center of the world and from its flanks emerge four mighty rivers of the east which bring sustenance to the region

There are no mountains like the Himalayas for in them lie Kailash & Mansarovar
-The Skanda Purana

To the early Aryans it was Mount Meru not only the navel of the Earth but the centre of the universe as well. On its summit is located the Swarga – the heaven – presided over by the king of the Hindu Gods, Indra, who is also the God of rains that bring prosperity to the vast food bowl of the Gangetic plains.

To the modern Hindu's it is known as Kailash (Crystal), where The Great God Shiva resides along with Parvati his consort.

To the Tibetan Buddhists it is known as Tise (Ice Peak) or Kang Rinpoche. (the Precious Snow Mountain) and regard it as the dwelling place of Demchog (also known as Chakrasamvara) and his consort, Dorje Phagmo.

The Bön,. the religion which predates Buddhism in Tibet, maintain that the entire mystical region and the Nine story Swastika Mountain ( Tagzig Olmo Lung Ring) and its the seat of all Spiritual power.

For Jains, this is the region of Mount Ashtapada, on the summit of which Rishabanatha, the first tirthankar, gained spiritual liberation.

It rises to a height of 6,638 m (21,778 ft) and remains unclimbed.
From time immemorial it has been the goal of pilgrims and explorers and the legends that surround it make it one of the most sacred and revered mountains in the world.

Mount Kailash is also the source of four major rivers: the Indus, the Brahmaputra, the Karnali and the Sutlej. The comparison to the Indian legend of Mount Meru from whose summit flows four great rivers that irrigate all of Asia is hard to miss.

Eighteen miles southeast of Kailash is the circular, turquoise Lake Manasarovar, or Tso Rinpoche, [Precious Lake], a 64-mile circuit, which is rarely completed except by the most devout. Bathing in the lake, or even dousing one’s head with the holy water, is said to be of enormous spiritual benefit to those who can brave the icy water which many claim contain miraculous powers. Hindus are told that complete immersion into the lake ensures they be reborn as a god. This is a freshwater lake, three miles above sea level. There is a saltwater lake, separated by a narrow peninsula, named Raksas Tal, or "Ravan's (The Demon King of the Ramayana) lake. Pilgrims don’t bathe or circumambulate this crescent moon-shaped body of water, but do pay their respect by glancing in its direction.

Five monasteries have been rebuilt on the shores of Lake Manasarovar since 1981—before the Chinese invasion in 1959 there were eight. Fatigued pilgrims are allowed to stay in the monasteries.

Fewer than 500 Indian nationals are allowed "officially" to make the pilgrimage per year due to the Chinese and Indian governments. Most of the Indians allowed in are selected via a lottery and the ability to pay their own way (Rs. 1.5 lakhs) is evident in the fact that the majority of them are middle-aged businessmen from large cities. Lately some Indians have used the various travel tours available from Nepal to get rid of these limitations.

Monday, December 8, 2008

CCKN.(6303mtrs)


CCKN.(6303mtrs), originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.
The summit pyramid of Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303mtrs) peak as seen near the village of Lhossar in the Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh, India.

One of the first mountaineers to visit and climb in the Spiti Valley was J.O.M Roberts in 1939 and he made the first ascent of this famous peak (then known as Guan Nelda).
P.F Holmes & T.H. Braham made the second known ascent in 1955.
Since then the peak has been climbed several times and remains the first peak to be climbed in the Spiti Valley.