Sumeru Parvat 6380 mtrs is the 3rd mountain from Bhigrupanth and the summit pyramid is striking similar to that of Mt. Kailash in Tibet & thus its name Sumeru which according to Hindu Myth is where Indra's Heaven is Located and where the Gods Reside.
Hardly any post processing apart from upping the saturation and levels. Just a long exposure shot to get the effect on the clouds.
Friday, February 20, 2009
Electric Dawn
Posted by
The Wandering Hermit
at
4:02 PM
0
comments
Monday, January 19, 2009
The Silver Mountain
Dunagiri was first climbed on July 5, 1939 by the Swiss climbers André Roch, F. Steuri, and D. Zogg, via the southwest ridge as part of their first Garhwal expedition sponsored by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research(2 more would follow in later years spanning the War and Andre Roch traveled on all three
This expedition would bag some notable climbs in the Uttarakhand area including Exploration of the Ramani glacier basic, first ascent of Dunagiri (7066 m), Rataban (Bloody Arrow) (6156 m), Ghori Parbat (6714 m). Last but not the least there was a notable attempt on Chaukhamba (7138 m).The main duty of the expedition was map making and in this they created a map on a scale of 1:150,000, is centered on Nanda Devi is still used due to its accuracy.
The Swiss returned to the Garhwal once again in 1947 & 1950 to complete the work started by this expedition and it remains one of the most successful ones ever to have left Switzerland (not to take anything away from their laudable 1952 Everest Expeditions of which Roche was part) & their later success on Lhotse.)
~~
There is also the fascinating story of Roche giving his compass on his last expedition to a Hindu Sadhu Baba he met living in a cave near Gangotri with the instructions to give the compass to the next person who came climbing in the region.. the compass changed hands 7 times and finally ended up in the possession of Harish Kapadia (The noted Indian Explorer and Mountaineer where it remains).
In 1975, Joe Tasker and Dick Renshaw drove a ramshackle van from the UK to Delhi and embarked on a notable climb which quickly became the stuff of lore in mountain climbing circles due to their choice of route and the fact that they climbed alpine style without a big expedition (which were the norm in the 70-'s)
The mountain they chose was DUNAGIRI and they climbed a particularly difficult route on the southeast buttress in the process setting a significant milestone for alpine-style climbing in the Himalayas.
(Dick Renshaw was also a team member alongwith Chris Bonnington of Peter Broadman & Joe Tasker on their 1986 Everest Pinnacles Expedition where he suffered a minor heart attack and thus had to return home , later both Broadman & Tasker would be lost somewhere high up on the mountains first pinnacle).
Posted by
The Wandering Hermit
at
4:01 PM
3
comments
Labels: Indian Himalayas, Kumaon Himal, Uttarakhand
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Shivas Matted Locks.
Shiva's statue as the Mahayogi on the banks of the Ganga in the night with Orion shining bright.
Rishikesh: Is named after the Matted Locks of Shiva (thus he is also known as Jatadhari as per Hindu Myths he used these locks of hair (Jata) to dissipate the force of Ganges as it descended to the Earth from the heavens o to make whole earth pious, fertile and wash out the sins of humans. For Hindus in India, the Ganga is not just a river but a mother, a goddess, a tradition, a culture and much more. Another name for Shiva in connection with the Ganga is Gaṅgādhara ("Bearer of the river Gaṅgā"))
Rishikesh is where the now fully formed Ganga first emerges from the embrace of the Himalayan Mountains and meets the Great Gangetic Plains (The Terai). The young bubbling river gives way to the meandering river which irrigates most of the Northern Indian Plains all the way to its eventual drainage almost 2500 kms away in the Bay of Bengal
The Story of the descent of Ganga
Legends associated with the river Ganga
Posted by
The Wandering Hermit
at
11:53 PM
2
comments
Labels: Uttarakhand
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
The Center of The World.
There are no mountains like the Himalayas for in them lie Kailash & Mansarovar
-The Skanda Purana
To the early Aryans it was Mount Meru not only the navel of the Earth but the centre of the universe as well. On its summit is located the Swarga – the heaven – presided over by the king of the Hindu Gods, Indra, who is also the God of rains that bring prosperity to the vast food bowl of the Gangetic plains.
To the modern Hindu's it is known as Kailash (Crystal), where The Great God Shiva resides along with Parvati his consort.
To the Tibetan Buddhists it is known as Tise (Ice Peak) or Kang Rinpoche. (the Precious Snow Mountain) and regard it as the dwelling place of Demchog (also known as Chakrasamvara) and his consort, Dorje Phagmo.
The Bön,. the religion which predates Buddhism in Tibet, maintain that the entire mystical region and the Nine story Swastika Mountain ( Tagzig Olmo Lung Ring) and its the seat of all Spiritual power.
For Jains, this is the region of Mount Ashtapada, on the summit of which Rishabanatha, the first tirthankar, gained spiritual liberation.
It rises to a height of 6,638 m (21,778 ft) and remains unclimbed.
From time immemorial it has been the goal of pilgrims and explorers and the legends that surround it make it one of the most sacred and revered mountains in the world.
Mount Kailash is also the source of four major rivers: the Indus, the Brahmaputra, the Karnali and the Sutlej. The comparison to the Indian legend of Mount Meru from whose summit flows four great rivers that irrigate all of Asia is hard to miss.
Eighteen miles southeast of Kailash is the circular, turquoise Lake Manasarovar, or Tso Rinpoche, [Precious Lake], a 64-mile circuit, which is rarely completed except by the most devout. Bathing in the lake, or even dousing one’s head with the holy water, is said to be of enormous spiritual benefit to those who can brave the icy water which many claim contain miraculous powers. Hindus are told that complete immersion into the lake ensures they be reborn as a god. This is a freshwater lake, three miles above sea level. There is a saltwater lake, separated by a narrow peninsula, named Raksas Tal, or "Ravan's (The Demon King of the Ramayana) lake. Pilgrims don’t bathe or circumambulate this crescent moon-shaped body of water, but do pay their respect by glancing in its direction.
Five monasteries have been rebuilt on the shores of Lake Manasarovar since 1981—before the Chinese invasion in 1959 there were eight. Fatigued pilgrims are allowed to stay in the monasteries.
Fewer than 500 Indian nationals are allowed "officially" to make the pilgrimage per year due to the Chinese and Indian governments. Most of the Indians allowed in are selected via a lottery and the ability to pay their own way (Rs. 1.5 lakhs) is evident in the fact that the majority of them are middle-aged businessmen from large cities. Lately some Indians have used the various travel tours available from Nepal to get rid of these limitations.
Posted by
The Wandering Hermit
at
4:20 PM
2
comments
Labels: Tibet
Monday, December 8, 2008
CCKN.(6303mtrs)
One of the first mountaineers to visit and climb in the Spiti Valley was J.O.M Roberts in 1939 and he made the first ascent of this famous peak (then known as Guan Nelda).
P.F Holmes & T.H. Braham made the second known ascent in 1955.
Since then the peak has been climbed several times and remains the first peak to be climbed in the Spiti Valley.
Posted by
The Wandering Hermit
at
2:28 PM
0
comments
Labels: HP, Indian Himalayas, Spiti
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Bushido on the Changger Bangger

viewed from Saf Minal, in the Kumaoni Himal Uttarakhand
- North Face Kalanaka
The Central Spur on the North Face has become one of the most sought-after lines in the Garhwal. Back in 1977 a Czechoslovakia team climbed the right side of the North Face to gain the col between Changabang and Kalanka, then up the West Ridge of the latter to the summit. Despite the use of fixed ropes, taken in the context of the era this route remains one of the most underrated achievements in the Himalaya.
Fast-forward more than 20 years. In 2001 top Americans, Carlos Buhler and Jack Roberts made the first unsuccessful attempt on the elegant Central (North) Spur.
Two years later in 2003 another American team, Sue Nott and John Varco, climbed the lower part of the spur, then used a portaledge to fix ropes through the vertical to overhanging central barrier (M6), completing all the technical difficulties and bivouacking at 6,550m before forced down by storm.
Buhler returned in 2004 with Sandy Allan and John Lyall but the attempt failed at around 6,000m.
In 2007 Nick Bullock and Kenton Cool tried another tact, climbing the big snow and ice slopes of the North East Face left of the Spur, only to be defeated on the crest of the East Ridge at over 6,300m. Another Slovienian team was also forced back later in the season.
2008 September Japanese Expedition
Thirty-one years old Kazuaki Amano, Fumitaka Ichimura (30) and Yusuke Sato (27) arrived at their 4,500m Bagini Glacier base camp on the 1st September and for the next eight days acclimatized to 5,800m. During this period they established an advanced base below the wall at 5,100m.
On the 14th they regained advanced base and the following day set off up the North East Face, taking a very similar line to the Bullock-Cool attempt. They bivouacked the first night at 6,000m and the following day made a long, almost horizontal traverse right below the upper rock walls to reach the crest of the Central Spur, where they bivouacked at c6,150m. On the 18th the three climbed most of the way through the steep section above (M5+) and bivouacked at 6,550m. They continued a short distance the following day to another bivouac at 6,600m, where they were pinned down for three long days by bad weather.
On the 22nd the weather cleared and Amano, Ichimura and Sato emerged with enough strength to go for the summit. This they reached in a 13-hour round trip from camp, and on the following day continued their descent, opting to follow the much safer line of the Central Spur directly to the glacier. After one more bivouac perched on the crest of the spur at around 6,000m, and a second on the glacier at c5,200m, they returned to base on the 24th, no doubt a trifle peckish having completed a hard 10-day alpine style ascent and descent on just five days food.
Not surprisingly, three days complete rest was necessary before they could even think about bringing down advanced base. The 1,800m route has been name Bushido.
This month, the Japanese trio’s alpine-style ascent of the 6,000-foot route won the Asian Piolet d’Or
- Changabang North Face 1st Ascent
In 1997, two Britishers Andy Cave and Brendan Murphy made the first ascent of the North Face of Changabang, a 1,600 m (5,250 ft) route involving steep, sustained ice, mixed, and rock climbing.
Unfortunately Murphy was hit by an avalanche and swept off the face to his death on the descent (Mick Fowler & Steve Sustad were also part of the same team though they were a day behind the climbers when all 4 of them teamed up to descend together because of the bad weather.)
With Andy Cave & Mick Fowler In their respective books we have two distinctive views on one of the greatest Himalayan adventures of the 1990s, the ascent of Changabang’s north face, as well as a wealth of other milestone routes from Fowler and a fascinating glimpse of Andy Cave’s background as a miner-turned-academic and mountain guide. Cave’s book, Learning to Breathe, is both unusual and engaging, giving an incisive view of hardship and tragedy from the Himalaya to the Yorkshire pit community of his youth.
Posted by
The Wandering Hermit
at
11:08 AM
1 comments
Labels: Indian Himalayas, Kumaon Himal, Uttarakhand
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Sunset over Bhagirathi III & I
Bhagirathi I is the farthest peak of the Bhagirathi Sisters group one of the many mountains which make up the Gangotri Group. Though many attempts and routes are tried on the formidable & difficult West Buttress of Bhagirathi III (The rib of the great buttress can be seen in this shot in the shadiows), Bhagirathi I has received scant attention.
Routes & Main Ascents
It was only in 1990 that a Japanese Expedition using nearly 2000 mtrs of rope made the first ascent via its Southeast Ridge.A small team of Alpinists from Britain made a fine Alpine Style ascent in 1983 via its West Ridge, which gave them some excellent granite but tricky snow climbing. Martin Moran , Charlie Heard & John Mothersdale made the summit in a fine effort without roping up the mountain or fancy ironmongery.. But sadly during the descent Heard fell to his death
Since then there have been other attempts amongst them some Indian Teams
Posted by
The Wandering Hermit
at
11:17 PM
3
comments
Labels: Garhwal Himal, Indian Himalayas, Uttarakhand
Monday, November 3, 2008
Namgyal Chortens near Shey.
Hundreds of crumbling chortens dot the landscape in Ladakh, the largest array is to be found in the desert east of Shey, the former capital of the Namgyal Kings who ruled Ladakh from the mid 1500's to the late 1800's
These Chortens are the Tibetan equivalent of the North Indian stupas & Chattris in Rajasthan - large hemispherical burial mounds-cum-devotional objects, prominent in Buddhist ritual since the third century BC. Made of mud and stone (now also concrete), many chortens were erected as acts of piety and remembrances by Ladakhi nobles
Some contain sacred manuscripts that, like the chortens, wither and decay in time, illustrating the central Buddhist doctrine of impermanence.
It is customary to pass a chorten in a clockwise direction: the ritual of circumambulation mimics the passage of the planets through the heavens, and is believed to ward off evil spirits.
A short way downhill from the big chorten, near the radio station, stands an even more monumental symbol of devotion. The 500-metre Mani Ringmo ( A wall made of up discarded Mani Stones), erected by King Deldan Namgyal in 1635 for his father Senge Namgyal one of the most successful of the dynasty who is still revered as he built many important monasteries (Hemis,Stakna and Chemre) & also built the Leh Palace.
Mani Ringmo
Ranging from a couple of meters to over a kilometer in length, these walls are made of hundreds of thousands of stones, each inscribed with prayers or sacred mantras - usually the invocation Om Mani Padme Hum: "Hail to the Jewel in the Lotus". They are hand carved and then discarded no matter how fine the carving again to show the impermanence of things and the curtailment of desire.
Such stones should never be removed and visitors should resist the urge to climb onto the walls to have photographs taken.
Posted by
The Wandering Hermit
at
11:16 PM
2
comments
Labels: East Korakorum, Indian Himalayas, Leh Ladakh
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Panchchuli Range from Kasauni
As with other peaks in the region these peaks too are revered and are named after the five Pandava brothers from the Indian epic Mahabharat.As per legend the peaks represent their cooking hearths (chulis) where they cooked their last meal before ascending to heaven from the nearby Swargarohini peaks
The Panch Chuli peaks lie in Eastern Kumaun and form the watershed between the Gori and the Darma Ganga valleys.
The eastern approaches are through Sona and Meola Glaciers. The Uttari and Dakhini Balati glaciers guard the western approaches. All of these glaciers have huge ice falls and it is because of these icefalls and approaches that the peaks are so seldom attempted.
The peaks are numbered NW to SE, I (6355m/20851ft), II (6904m/22652ft) , III (6312m/2071 Oft), IV (6334m/20782ft) and V (6437m/21120ft). Naming the peaks from west to east breaks with the tradition of giving the highest peak the lowest number, but the nomenclature has become too well established to be changed now.
Early Expeditions from the East
The mountaineering history of these peaks began with the British mountaineer Hugh Ruttledge (1929) (leader of the 1931 & 33 British Mount Everest Expeditions). He saw the group at close quarters from high up on the Sona Glacier. He examined the routes and thought that the north arete (sharp ridge) might be possible.
After 21 years two teams examined the eastern approaches. W H Murray (1950) and his prolific Scottish team followed the Ruttledge route. They intended to reach the north col and follow the northeast ridge; however, they found the terrain too difficult.
Just 20 days later came Kenneth Snelson (British) and J de V Graaff (SouthAfrican). They reached the upper Sona Glacier by early September and found that its head was a cradle of 182m (600 ft) cliffs blocking the route to the northeast summit's ridge.
Attempts from the West
The western approaches were tried one year after Murray. In 1951 Heinrich Harrer (Of “Seven Years in Tibet & Eiger Nordwand fame) and Frank Thomas (both Austrians) were joined by two Sherpas and a botanist. Though their account in the Himalayan Journal is not very explicit, their photographs in the archives clearly indicate that they pioneered the route through the Uttari Balati Glacier, bypassing three ice-falls. Together with the Sherpas, Harrer reached the Balati plateau and examined the north and west ridges. They tried the west ridge but a Sherpa fell off on hard blue ice. Harrer gave up. They spent only 16 days on the mountains but during that time they pioneered the route which was followed by all subsequent expeditions from this side.
First Ascents
The history of the Panch Chuli group continued with two large expeditions from the Indo-Tibet Border Police.
The first team in 1972 was led by Hukam Singh. They powered their way to the Balati Plateau via the Harrer route and made the first-ever ascent of peak I.
Repeating their route, Mahendra Singh led another team in 1973. The entire route on the southwest ridge was fixed with almost 3000m (9843ft) of rope. On 26th May 1973, 18 people climbed the summit of Panch Chuli II, the highest peak of the group.
The mountain was then left alone for some 18 years. In 1991 two routes were climbed via the eastern approaches by teams from the Indian Army. The first team followed the Sona Glacier, climbed the northeast slopes to reach above the north col and established a camp on the north ridge. The ridge was followed to the top, and thus the route suggested by Ruttledge in 1929 was finally completed after 61 years.
The second army team followed Murray's route to the upper Meola Glacier. They pitched a high camp following the southeast slopes to the east ridge. The summit team broke the cornice to reach the top, and thus the route suggested by Snelson-Graaff was also completed, after 41 years.
Significant Climbs
The scene finally shifted back to the west. The Indian-British expedition 1992 (jointly led by Sir Chris Bonington and Harish Kapadia) followed the route along the Uttari Balati Glacier to the Balati Plateau.
On the way the team divided into groups to climb Sahadev East (5757m/18889ft), Menaka (6000m/19686ft) and Rajrambha (6537m/21448ft).
On peak II, a team of three climbed the southwest ridge. It was a hard climb on ice, keeping well away from the hanging cornices. Compared to the earlier ascent, only 60m (197ft) of rope was fixed on the ridge. This was only the second ascent of the southwest ridge, made after 19 years.
Another team of two pioneered a new route up the steep and icy west ridge, with bivouacs. They descended the southwest ridge completing the traverse. Thus the route tried by Harrer was completed after 41 years.
The 1992 expedition later made the first ascent of peak V approaching through the Pyunshani Valley .
On this peak Stephen Venables (First Britisher to summit Everest without Oxygen through a new route of the notorious and deadly Kanshung Face of Everest) , fell 30 mtrs while returning from the peak.survived despite serious injuries and 2 broken legs
While descending to get help Chris Bonnington fell nearly 100 mtrs and to him it must have seem like a repeat of his famous Ogre Climb( Ogre is Baintha Barrak in Pakistan) where Doug Scott had broken both legs and Chris too survived a 1000 ft fall Luckily like the ogre they all survived and Venables was airlifted in a daring and difficult helicopter rescue by the IAF from the high camp.
Peak IV was climbed in 1995 by a team from New Zealand.
Peak III: it was attempted by two expeditions from Bombay in 1996 and 1998, both of which resulted in accidents the New Zealanders returned in 2001 to finally make the first Ascent of Peak III
Posted by
The Wandering Hermit
at
6:33 AM
2
comments
Labels: Indian Himalayas, Kumaon Himal, Uttarakhand
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Stoke Da Kangri
Its the highest peak in the Stok Range which ring the valley of Leh and a very popular trekking peak which offers non technical (but steep nonetheless) climbing for trekkers and amateur mountaineers.
It is probably the most busy peak in India and has attracted a lot of official and "unofficial" groups specially in the last few years. (the situation got so bad that now a permanent LO (liaison officer) is stationed at Base Camp during the season to deter "unofficial" climbers from tackling the peak).
The approach to the peak via Rumbak, Makarmo to base camp at 5100mtrs through the Stok La(4,900mtrs) is quite spectacular as the mountains are vividly colored and one gets to see some very unusual folding in the rock formations
Posted by
The Wandering Hermit
at
11:24 AM
1 comments
Labels: Indian Himalayas, Leh Ladakh