Panchchuli Range from Kasauni

Panchchuli Range from Kasauni, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

As with other peaks in the region these peaks too are revered and are named after the five Pandava brothers from the Indian epic Mahabharat.As per legend the peaks represent their cooking hearths (chulis) where they cooked their last meal before ascending to heaven from the nearby Swargarohini peaks

The Panch Chuli peaks lie in Eastern Kumaun and form the watershed between the Gori and the Darma Ganga valleys.

The eastern approaches are through Sona and Meola Glaciers. The Uttari and Dakhini Balati glaciers guard the western approaches. All of these glaciers have huge ice falls and it is because of these icefalls and approaches that the peaks are so seldom attempted.
The peaks are numbered NW to SE, I (6355m/20851ft), II (6904m/22652ft) , III (6312m/2071 Oft), IV (6334m/20782ft) and V (6437m/21120ft). Naming the peaks from west to east breaks with the tradition of giving the highest peak the lowest number, but the nomenclature has become too well established to be changed now.

Early Expeditions from the East

The mountaineering history of these peaks began with the British mountaineer Hugh Ruttledge (1929) (leader of the 1931 & 33 British Mount Everest Expeditions). He saw the group at close quarters from high up on the Sona Glacier. He examined the routes and thought that the north arete (sharp ridge) might be possible.

After 21 years two teams examined the eastern approaches. W H Murray (1950) and his prolific Scottish team followed the Ruttledge route. They intended to reach the north col and follow the northeast ridge; however, they found the terrain too difficult.

Just 20 days later came Kenneth Snelson (British) and J de V Graaff (SouthAfrican). They reached the upper Sona Glacier by early September and found that its head was a cradle of 182m (600 ft) cliffs blocking the route to the northeast summit's ridge.

Attempts from the West

The western approaches were tried one year after Murray. In 1951 Heinrich Harrer (Of “Seven Years in Tibet & Eiger Nordwand fame) and Frank Thomas (both Austrians) were joined by two Sherpas and a botanist. Though their account in the Himalayan Journal is not very explicit, their photographs in the archives clearly indicate that they pioneered the route through the Uttari Balati Glacier, bypassing three ice-falls. Together with the Sherpas, Harrer reached the Balati plateau and examined the north and west ridges. They tried the west ridge but a Sherpa fell off on hard blue ice. Harrer gave up. They spent only 16 days on the mountains but during that time they pioneered the route which was followed by all subsequent expeditions from this side.

First Ascents
The history of the Panch Chuli group continued with two large expeditions from the Indo-Tibet Border Police.

The first team in 1972 was led by Hukam Singh. They powered their way to the Balati Plateau via the Harrer route and made the first-ever ascent of peak I.

Repeating their route, Mahendra Singh led another team in 1973. The entire route on the southwest ridge was fixed with almost 3000m (9843ft) of rope. On 26th May 1973, 18 people climbed the summit of Panch Chuli II, the highest peak of the group.

The mountain was then left alone for some 18 years. In 1991 two routes were climbed via the eastern approaches by teams from the Indian Army. The first team followed the Sona Glacier, climbed the northeast slopes to reach above the north col and established a camp on the north ridge. The ridge was followed to the top, and thus the route suggested by Ruttledge in 1929 was finally completed after 61 years.

The second army team followed Murray's route to the upper Meola Glacier. They pitched a high camp following the southeast slopes to the east ridge. The summit team broke the cornice to reach the top, and thus the route suggested by Snelson-Graaff was also completed, after 41 years.

Significant Climbs
The scene finally shifted back to the west. The Indian-British expedition 1992 (jointly led by Sir Chris Bonington and Harish Kapadia) followed the route along the Uttari Balati Glacier to the Balati Plateau.
On the way the team divided into groups to climb Sahadev East (5757m/18889ft), Menaka (6000m/19686ft) and Rajrambha (6537m/21448ft).

On peak II, a team of three climbed the southwest ridge. It was a hard climb on ice, keeping well away from the hanging cornices. Compared to the earlier ascent, only 60m (197ft) of rope was fixed on the ridge. This was only the second ascent of the southwest ridge, made after 19 years.

Another team of two pioneered a new route up the steep and icy west ridge, with bivouacs. They descended the southwest ridge completing the traverse. Thus the route tried by Harrer was completed after 41 years.

The 1992 expedition later made the first ascent of peak V approaching through the Pyunshani Valley .

On this peak Stephen Venables (First Britisher to summit Everest without Oxygen through a new route of the notorious and deadly Kanshung Face of Everest) , fell 30 mtrs while returning from the peak.survived despite serious injuries and 2 broken legs

While descending to get help Chris Bonnington fell nearly 100 mtrs and to him it must have seem like a repeat of his famous Ogre Climb( Ogre is Baintha Barrak in Pakistan) where Doug Scott had broken both legs and Chris too survived a 1000 ft fall Luckily like the ogre they all survived and Venables was airlifted in a daring and difficult helicopter rescue by the IAF from the high camp.

Peak IV was climbed in 1995 by a team from New Zealand.

Peak III: it was attempted by two expeditions from Bombay in 1996 and 1998, both of which resulted in accidents the New Zealanders returned in 2001 to finally make the first Ascent of Peak III