The Center of The World.

The Center of The World., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

There is a old legend of Asia, of a great sacred mountain which is the center of the world and from its flanks emerge four mighty rivers of the east which bring sustenance to the region

There are no mountains like the Himalayas for in them lie Kailash & Mansarovar
-The Skanda Purana

To the early Aryans it was Mount Meru not only the navel of the Earth but the centre of the universe as well. On its summit is located the Swarga – the heaven – presided over by the king of the Hindu Gods, Indra, who is also the God of rains that bring prosperity to the vast food bowl of the Gangetic plains.

To the modern Hindu's it is known as Kailash (Crystal), where The Great God Shiva resides along with Parvati his consort.

To the Tibetan Buddhists it is known as Tise (Ice Peak) or Kang Rinpoche. (the Precious Snow Mountain) and regard it as the dwelling place of Demchog (also known as Chakrasamvara) and his consort, Dorje Phagmo.

The Bön,. the religion which predates Buddhism in Tibet, maintain that the entire mystical region and the Nine story Swastika Mountain ( Tagzig Olmo Lung Ring) and its the seat of all Spiritual power.

For Jains, this is the region of Mount Ashtapada, on the summit of which Rishabanatha, the first tirthankar, gained spiritual liberation.

It rises to a height of 6,638 m (21,778 ft) and remains unclimbed.
From time immemorial it has been the goal of pilgrims and explorers and the legends that surround it make it one of the most sacred and revered mountains in the world.

Mount Kailash is also the source of four major rivers: the Indus, the Brahmaputra, the Karnali and the Sutlej. The comparison to the Indian legend of Mount Meru from whose summit flows four great rivers that irrigate all of Asia is hard to miss.

Eighteen miles southeast of Kailash is the circular, turquoise Lake Manasarovar, or Tso Rinpoche, [Precious Lake], a 64-mile circuit, which is rarely completed except by the most devout. Bathing in the lake, or even dousing one’s head with the holy water, is said to be of enormous spiritual benefit to those who can brave the icy water which many claim contain miraculous powers. Hindus are told that complete immersion into the lake ensures they be reborn as a god. This is a freshwater lake, three miles above sea level. There is a saltwater lake, separated by a narrow peninsula, named Raksas Tal, or "Ravan's (The Demon King of the Ramayana) lake. Pilgrims don’t bathe or circumambulate this crescent moon-shaped body of water, but do pay their respect by glancing in its direction.

Five monasteries have been rebuilt on the shores of Lake Manasarovar since 1981—before the Chinese invasion in 1959 there were eight. Fatigued pilgrims are allowed to stay in the monasteries.

Fewer than 500 Indian nationals are allowed "officially" to make the pilgrimage per year due to the Chinese and Indian governments. Most of the Indians allowed in are selected via a lottery and the ability to pay their own way (Rs. 1.5 lakhs) is evident in the fact that the majority of them are middle-aged businessmen from large cities. Lately some Indians have used the various travel tours available from Nepal to get rid of these limitations.

CCKN.(6303mtrs)

CCKN.(6303mtrs), originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

The summit pyramid of Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303mtrs) peak as seen near the village of Lhossar in the Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh, India.

One of the first mountaineers to visit and climb in the Spiti Valley was J.O.M Roberts in 1939 and he made the first ascent of this famous peak (then known as Guan Nelda).
P.F Holmes & T.H. Braham made the second known ascent in 1955.
Since then the peak has been climbed several times and remains the first peak to be climbed in the Spiti Valley.

Bushido on the Changger Bangger

Bushido on the Changger Bangger, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

The rarely seen North Faces of Kalanka & Changabang
viewed from Saf Minal, in the Kumaoni Himal Uttarakhand

• North Face Kalanaka

The Central Spur on the North Face has become one of the most sought-after lines in the Garhwal. Back in 1977 a Czechoslovakia team climbed the right side of the North Face to gain the col between Changabang and Kalanka, then up the West Ridge of the latter to the summit. Despite the use of fixed ropes, taken in the context of the era this route remains one of the most underrated achievements in the Himalaya.

Fast-forward more than 20 years. In 2001 top Americans, Carlos Buhler and Jack Roberts made the first unsuccessful attempt on the elegant Central (North) Spur.

Two years later in 2003 another American team, Sue Nott and John Varco, climbed the lower part of the spur, then used a portaledge to fix ropes through the vertical to overhanging central barrier (M6), completing all the technical difficulties and bivouacking at 6,550m before forced down by storm.

Buhler returned in 2004 with Sandy Allan and John Lyall but the attempt failed at around 6,000m.

In 2007 Nick Bullock and Kenton Cool tried another tact, climbing the big snow and ice slopes of the North East Face left of the Spur, only to be defeated on the crest of the East Ridge at over 6,300m. Another Slovienian team was also forced back later in the season.

2008 September Japanese Expedition
Thirty-one years old Kazuaki Amano, Fumitaka Ichimura (30) and Yusuke Sato (27) arrived at their 4,500m Bagini Glacier base camp on the 1st September and for the next eight days acclimatized to 5,800m. During this period they established an advanced base below the wall at 5,100m.

On the 14th they regained advanced base and the following day set off up the North East Face, taking a very similar line to the Bullock-Cool attempt. They bivouacked the first night at 6,000m and the following day made a long, almost horizontal traverse right below the upper rock walls to reach the crest of the Central Spur, where they bivouacked at c6,150m. On the 18th the three climbed most of the way through the steep section above (M5+) and bivouacked at 6,550m. They continued a short distance the following day to another bivouac at 6,600m, where they were pinned down for three long days by bad weather.

On the 22nd the weather cleared and Amano, Ichimura and Sato emerged with enough strength to go for the summit. This they reached in a 13-hour round trip from camp, and on the following day continued their descent, opting to follow the much safer line of the Central Spur directly to the glacier. After one more bivouac perched on the crest of the spur at around 6,000m, and a second on the glacier at c5,200m, they returned to base on the 24th, no doubt a trifle peckish having completed a hard 10-day alpine style ascent and descent on just five days food.

Not surprisingly, three days complete rest was necessary before they could even think about bringing down advanced base. The 1,800m route has been name Bushido.

This month, the Japanese trio’s alpine-style ascent of the 6,000-foot route won the Asian Piolet d’Or

• Changabang North Face 1st Ascent

In 1997, two Britishers Andy Cave and Brendan Murphy made the first ascent of the North Face of Changabang, a 1,600 m (5,250 ft) route involving steep, sustained ice, mixed, and rock climbing.

Unfortunately Murphy was hit by an avalanche and swept off the face to his death on the descent (Mick Fowler & Steve Sustad were also part of the same team though they were a day behind the climbers when all 4 of them teamed up to descend together because of the bad weather.)

With Andy Cave & Mick Fowler In their respective books we have two distinctive views on one of the greatest Himalayan adventures of the 1990s, the ascent of Changabang’s north face, as well as a wealth of other milestone routes from Fowler and a fascinating glimpse of Andy Cave’s background as a miner-turned-academic and mountain guide. Cave’s book, Learning to Breathe, is both unusual and engaging, giving an incisive view of hardship and tragedy from the Himalaya to the Yorkshire pit community of his youth.

Sunset over Bhagirathi III & I

Sunset over Bhagirathi III & I, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Sunset coats Bhagirathi I in Alpen Glow, as viewed from the Gangotri Glacier.

Bhagirathi I is the farthest peak of the Bhagirathi Sisters group one of the many mountains which make up the Gangotri Group. Though many attempts and routes are tried on the formidable & difficult West Buttress of Bhagirathi III (The rib of the great buttress can be seen in this shot in the shadiows), Bhagirathi I has received scant attention.

Routes & Main Ascents
It was only in 1990 that a Japanese Expedition using nearly 2000 mtrs of rope made the first ascent via its Southeast Ridge.A small team of Alpinists from Britain made a fine Alpine Style ascent in 1983 via its West Ridge, which gave them some excellent granite but tricky snow climbing. Martin Moran , Charlie Heard & John Mothersdale made the summit in a fine effort without roping up the mountain or fancy ironmongery.. But sadly during the descent Heard fell to his death
Since then there have been other attempts amongst them some Indian Teams

Namgyal Chortens near Shey.

Namgyal Chortens near Shey., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Hundreds of crumbling chortens dot the landscape in Ladakh, the largest array is to be found in the desert east of Shey, the former capital of the Namgyal Kings who ruled Ladakh from the mid 1500's to the late 1800's

These Chortens are the Tibetan equivalent of the North Indian stupas & Chattris in Rajasthan - large hemispherical burial mounds-cum-devotional objects, prominent in Buddhist ritual since the third century BC. Made of mud and stone (now also concrete), many chortens were erected as acts of piety and remembrances by Ladakhi nobles

Some contain sacred manuscripts that, like the chortens, wither and decay in time, illustrating the central Buddhist doctrine of impermanence.

It is customary to pass a chorten in a clockwise direction: the ritual of circumambulation mimics the passage of the planets through the heavens, and is believed to ward off evil spirits.

A short way downhill from the big chorten, near the radio station, stands an even more monumental symbol of devotion. The 500-metre Mani Ringmo ( A wall made of up discarded Mani Stones), erected by King Deldan Namgyal in 1635 for his father Senge Namgyal one of the most successful of the dynasty who is still revered as he built many important monasteries (Hemis,Stakna and Chemre) & also built the Leh Palace.

Mani Ringmo
Ranging from a couple of meters to over a kilometer in length, these walls are made of hundreds of thousands of stones, each inscribed with prayers or sacred mantras - usually the invocation Om Mani Padme Hum: "Hail to the Jewel in the Lotus". They are hand carved and then discarded no matter how fine the carving again to show the impermanence of things and the curtailment of desire.

Such stones should never be removed and visitors should resist the urge to climb onto the walls to have photographs taken.

Panchchuli Range from Kasauni

Panchchuli Range from Kasauni, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

As with other peaks in the region these peaks too are revered and are named after the five Pandava brothers from the Indian epic Mahabharat.As per legend the peaks represent their cooking hearths (chulis) where they cooked their last meal before ascending to heaven from the nearby Swargarohini peaks

The Panch Chuli peaks lie in Eastern Kumaun and form the watershed between the Gori and the Darma Ganga valleys.

The eastern approaches are through Sona and Meola Glaciers. The Uttari and Dakhini Balati glaciers guard the western approaches. All of these glaciers have huge ice falls and it is because of these icefalls and approaches that the peaks are so seldom attempted.
The peaks are numbered NW to SE, I (6355m/20851ft), II (6904m/22652ft) , III (6312m/2071 Oft), IV (6334m/20782ft) and V (6437m/21120ft). Naming the peaks from west to east breaks with the tradition of giving the highest peak the lowest number, but the nomenclature has become too well established to be changed now.

Early Expeditions from the East

The mountaineering history of these peaks began with the British mountaineer Hugh Ruttledge (1929) (leader of the 1931 & 33 British Mount Everest Expeditions). He saw the group at close quarters from high up on the Sona Glacier. He examined the routes and thought that the north arete (sharp ridge) might be possible.

After 21 years two teams examined the eastern approaches. W H Murray (1950) and his prolific Scottish team followed the Ruttledge route. They intended to reach the north col and follow the northeast ridge; however, they found the terrain too difficult.

Just 20 days later came Kenneth Snelson (British) and J de V Graaff (SouthAfrican). They reached the upper Sona Glacier by early September and found that its head was a cradle of 182m (600 ft) cliffs blocking the route to the northeast summit's ridge.

Attempts from the West

The western approaches were tried one year after Murray. In 1951 Heinrich Harrer (Of “Seven Years in Tibet & Eiger Nordwand fame) and Frank Thomas (both Austrians) were joined by two Sherpas and a botanist. Though their account in the Himalayan Journal is not very explicit, their photographs in the archives clearly indicate that they pioneered the route through the Uttari Balati Glacier, bypassing three ice-falls. Together with the Sherpas, Harrer reached the Balati plateau and examined the north and west ridges. They tried the west ridge but a Sherpa fell off on hard blue ice. Harrer gave up. They spent only 16 days on the mountains but during that time they pioneered the route which was followed by all subsequent expeditions from this side.

First Ascents
The history of the Panch Chuli group continued with two large expeditions from the Indo-Tibet Border Police.

The first team in 1972 was led by Hukam Singh. They powered their way to the Balati Plateau via the Harrer route and made the first-ever ascent of peak I.

Repeating their route, Mahendra Singh led another team in 1973. The entire route on the southwest ridge was fixed with almost 3000m (9843ft) of rope. On 26th May 1973, 18 people climbed the summit of Panch Chuli II, the highest peak of the group.

The mountain was then left alone for some 18 years. In 1991 two routes were climbed via the eastern approaches by teams from the Indian Army. The first team followed the Sona Glacier, climbed the northeast slopes to reach above the north col and established a camp on the north ridge. The ridge was followed to the top, and thus the route suggested by Ruttledge in 1929 was finally completed after 61 years.

The second army team followed Murray's route to the upper Meola Glacier. They pitched a high camp following the southeast slopes to the east ridge. The summit team broke the cornice to reach the top, and thus the route suggested by Snelson-Graaff was also completed, after 41 years.

Significant Climbs
The scene finally shifted back to the west. The Indian-British expedition 1992 (jointly led by Sir Chris Bonington and Harish Kapadia) followed the route along the Uttari Balati Glacier to the Balati Plateau.
On the way the team divided into groups to climb Sahadev East (5757m/18889ft), Menaka (6000m/19686ft) and Rajrambha (6537m/21448ft).

On peak II, a team of three climbed the southwest ridge. It was a hard climb on ice, keeping well away from the hanging cornices. Compared to the earlier ascent, only 60m (197ft) of rope was fixed on the ridge. This was only the second ascent of the southwest ridge, made after 19 years.

Another team of two pioneered a new route up the steep and icy west ridge, with bivouacs. They descended the southwest ridge completing the traverse. Thus the route tried by Harrer was completed after 41 years.

The 1992 expedition later made the first ascent of peak V approaching through the Pyunshani Valley .

On this peak Stephen Venables (First Britisher to summit Everest without Oxygen through a new route of the notorious and deadly Kanshung Face of Everest) , fell 30 mtrs while returning from the peak.survived despite serious injuries and 2 broken legs

While descending to get help Chris Bonnington fell nearly 100 mtrs and to him it must have seem like a repeat of his famous Ogre Climb( Ogre is Baintha Barrak in Pakistan) where Doug Scott had broken both legs and Chris too survived a 1000 ft fall Luckily like the ogre they all survived and Venables was airlifted in a daring and difficult helicopter rescue by the IAF from the high camp.

Peak IV was climbed in 1995 by a team from New Zealand.

Peak III: it was attempted by two expeditions from Bombay in 1996 and 1998, both of which resulted in accidents the New Zealanders returned in 2001 to finally make the first Ascent of Peak III

Stoke Da Kangri

Stoke Da Kangri, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Stok Kangri (6120mtrs) gleams under a Harvest Moon and a star spangled sky.

Its the highest peak in the Stok Range which ring the valley of Leh and a very popular trekking peak which offers non technical (but steep nonetheless) climbing for trekkers and amateur mountaineers.
It is probably the most busy peak in India and has attracted a lot of official and "unofficial" groups specially in the last few years. (the situation got so bad that now a permanent LO (liaison officer) is stationed at Base Camp during the season to deter "unofficial" climbers from tackling the peak).

The approach to the peak via Rumbak, Makarmo to base camp at 5100mtrs through the Stok La(4,900mtrs) is quite spectacular as the mountains are vividly colored and one gets to see some very unusual folding in the rock formations

Alpenglow on Kang Yatze

Alpenglow on Kang Yatze, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Sunset on the north face of Kang Yatze (6,400 mtrs) one of the highest peaks in the Zanskar Ranges rising above the idyllic Nimaling Plains in the Markha Valley, Ladakh, India.

Along with Stok Kangri , Kang Yatze is also one of the more popular trekking peaks in the region and as it offers little technical difficulty its quite popular destination for both experienced trekkers and amateur mountaineers. Lately a lot of ski touring parties have made merry on these long gently undulating slopes

The first ascent of Kang Yatze I was made in 1982 by an Irish Team led by Trever Mitten who climbed the East Ridge to the top.

Kang Yatze II was first climbed in 1981 by a team from Nanzan Alpine Club, Japan led by Seigo Inaba. They tackled the north west ridge to the top.

In all her glory..

In all her glory.., originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

nyone who's ever witnessed the sun set or rise over mountains can attest that during these daily occurances the mountains are at their most beautiful.. The constant shifting in the intensity of the light makes these times entrancing as you feverishly wish that you can capture it all on film (though film can never compare to actually being there and cannot truely convey the magnificance totally still its the next best thing)..

Also another reason I click a lot of such shots is that while climbing in the Garhwal and Kumaon Himal it is best to get the major climbing done when the snow is relatively hard and compact after a nights freeze as within an hour of the sun touching the slopes, the snow conditions start to deteriorate almost instantly and by noon its almost slush.

Its this constant freeze and melting which also make rockfall a constant danger as the snow binding these rocks becomes elastic and all of a sudden the rocks break loose when least expected.

These two reasons make climbing here quite a serious proposition and as a result the standard grade of difficulty on climbs like the Sharks Fins (Meru Central seen here) or the South Pillar of Changabang & Bhagirathi's West Buttress , South Face of Purbi Dunagiri (Still unclimbed) are amongst the highest that mountaineers have tackled making them some of the hardest technical Big Wall climbs in the world today.
Out of 30 expeditions only 2 have managed to climb the Shark's Fin and that too not all the way having had to detour from the route to reach the peak.

Shiva's Trident

Shiva's Trident, originally uploaded by The Wandering Hermit.

Sunset on Trisul during the Roopkund Trek. (View Large)

Trisul I 7120 mtrs(30°18′36″N 79°46′12″E /30.31, 79.77)

Trisul II 6690mtrs(30°17′24″N 79°46′12″E / 30.29, 79.77)

Trisul III 6008mtrs (30°15′00″N 79°46′12″E / 30.25, 79.77) ;

In the Annals of Himalayan Climbing History Trisul plays an important part as it was one of the earliest peaks in the Himalayas to be submitted in 1907
Early Climbing History & First Ascent:
The legendary Dr. T. G. Longstaff made the first climbing reconnaissance of Trisul, in September 1905, focusing on the western and southern sides.
In 1907 The Alpine Club as part of their Golden Jubliee Celebrations were refused permission to climb Everest so attention shifted to Trishul. A.L. Mumm (a wealthy publisher)& guaranteed to meet all expenses.

The party was
A. L. Mumm,with his usual guide Moritz Inderbinnen
Charles Bruce with 9 Gorkhas from the Gorkha Rifles. ( General Bruce would be the expedition leader of the 1922 and 1924 Everest expedition)

Dr. Tom Langstaff with his guides, The Two Bocherel Brothers Alex and Henri. (The Canadian climber and Doctor who was the chief medical officer of the 1922 Everest Expedition)
{It was standard practice to climb with Swiss Alpine Guides in those days, except for Dr A.M Kellas who climbed with Sherpas, mostly all early explorers brought their own guides from Europe}
Bottled Oxygen was used for the first time in Himalayan Conditions manufactured by Seibb & Gormann who would later supply the early Everest Expeditions of 1922 and 1924.

The Climb:
From a camp at about 17,500 ft. Longstaff, The Bocherel Brothers, and Kabir one of the Gorkha soldiers reached the top, a fine feat of mountaineering considering that they climbed nearly 6,000 ft in just a day in fine weather.
It remained the highest peak to be climbed until the next 25 years till the first ascent of KAMET in 1931 by Frank Symthe's team.

From an Indian Mountaineering point of view Trisul was the first major peak to be climbed by an Indian Team with Indian Climbers in 1951 when Gurdial Singh ( a teacher at Doon School) with Roy Greenwood(an Englishman) & Sherpa Dawa Thondupreached the summit.

The only demonstration of joy was their homage to Mother Earth, they bent their heads low and pointed their feet skywards (a Sheeshasana or headstand) on the summit of Trishul! !!!
Gurdials Singh's Summit Photograph