Sunset on the magnificient and awe inspiring
Nanda Devi East (7,434 m (24,390 ft))& Nanda Devi Main Peaks (7,816 mtrs (25,643 ft) Ranked 23rd highest).
Nanda Devi, the Himalayan peak known as the Goddess for her beauty and her wrath, is a fickle mistress. She has stolen other men's lives and sent a woman named after her to her grave.
She is also a shy goddess who is guarded by one of the most formidable mountain walls anywhere in the Himalayas.
The main summit stands guarded by a barrier ring comprising some of the highest mountains in the Indian Himalayas (one of which is Nanda Devi East), twelve of which exceed 6,400 m (21,000 ft) in height, further elevating its sacred status as the daughter of the Himalaya in local myth and folklore. The interior of this almost insurmountable ring is known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, and is protected as the Nanda Devi National Park.
Nanda Devi East lies on the eastern edge of the ring (and of the Park), at the border of Chamoli, Pithoragarh and Bageshwar districts.
Exploration and climbing history
The ascent of Nanda Devi necessitated fifty years of arduous exploration in search of a passage into the Sanctuary. The outlet is the
Rishi Gorge, a deep, narrow canyon which is very difficult to traverse safely, and is the biggest hindrance to entering the Sanctuary; any other route involves difficult passes, the lowest of which is 5,180 m (16,990 ft).
Early Explorations
During its heyday, Nanda Devi stood as the highest peak in the British Empire and drew the interest of mountaineers from the entire western world. As part of their search for trade routes to Tibet, the British also began as early as 1830 to explore the upper reaches of the High Himalayas, with the region around Nanda Devi providing the most attractive access to the “hermit” kingdom.
G.W. Traill, the first commissioner of the recently acquired Garhwal and Kumaon districts (ceded by the Gurkhas to the British in 1815), crossed Pindari Glacier in search of a shortcut to Milam in the north. In the process he was snow blinded, this the local people attributed to the wrath of the Goddess for invading her sanctuary
In 1883
, W.W. Graham led a small but adventurous team in search of a path up the Rishi Ganga to the foot of Nanda Devi. Encountering all manners of obstacles including steep rugged terrain and incessant snow and rain, the party also portered much of their supplies themselves, reaching beyond
Dharansi Pass before turning back.
In 1905 and 1907,
T.G. Longstaff resumed Graham’s efforts, exploring the eastern and western approaches to Nanda Devi respectively. In the later mission, Longstaff’s team retraced Graham’s path, ascending Trisul (23,406ft), but did not attempt another foray into the upper Rishi.
Twenty years later, Longstaff returned and with
Hugh Ruttledge sought out the elusive access route to no avail.
Ruttledgeas Deputy Commissioner for Almora (Leader of two attempts on Mt. Everest in the 1930's) attempted to reach the peak three times in the 1930s and failed each time. In a letter to The Times he wrote that '
Nanda Devi imposes on her votaries an admission test as yet beyond their skill and endurance', adding that gaining entry to the
Nanda Devi Sanctuary alone was more difficult than reaching the North Pole.
In 1934, the British explorers
Eric Shipton and H.W. Tilman, with three Sherpa companions, Angtharkay, Pasang, and Kusang, finally discovered a way through the Rishi Gorge into the Sanctuary.
When the mountain was later climbed in 1936 by a British-American expedition, it became the highest peak climbed by man until the 1950 ascent of Annapurna, 8,091 metres (26,545 ft)by the French . (However higher non-summit elevations had already been reached by the British on Mount Everest in the 1920s.)
It also involved steeper and more sustained terrain than had been previously attempted at such a high altitude The expedition climbed the south ridge, also known as the Coxcomb Ridge, which leads relatively directly to the main summit.
The summit pair were
H.W. Tilman and Noel Odell;
Charles Houston was to be in place of Tilman, but he contracted severe food poisoning. Noted mountaineer and mountain writer
H. Adams Carter was also on the expedition, which was notable for its small scale and lightweight ethic: it included only seven climbers, and used no fixed ropes, nor any Sherpa support above 6,200 m (20,300 ft).
Eric Shipton, who was not involved in the climb itself, called it "the finest mountaineering achievement ever performed in the Himalaya."
After abortive attempts by Indian expeditions in 1957 and 1961, the second ascent of Nanda Devi was accomplished by an Indian team led by
N. Kumar in 1964, following the Coxcomb route.
Nuclear ControversyAttempts were made from 1965 to 1968 by the CIA to place a plutonium-powered listening device high on Nanda Devi, to monitor possible Chinese nuclear activity in Tibet, but the device was lost in an avalanche. (Recent reports of samples taken from the sources of Ghori Ganga by
Pete Takeda indicate that radiation traces from this device have been discovered in sediment below the mountain.) The actual data is not conclusive, however, but the absence of Pu-238 (the isotope that powered the device) in the sample proves that any Pu present could not have come from the device. As a result of this activity, the Sanctuary was closed to climbing by foreign expeditions during much of the 1960s, and was not re-opened until 1974.
A difficult new route, the northwest buttress, was climbed by a thirteen-person team in 1976. Three Americans,
John Roskelley, Jim States and Lou Reichardt, summitted on September 1. The expedition was co-led by Louis Reichardt, H. Adams Carter (who was on the 1936 climb) and
Willi Unsoeld, (along with Tom Hornbein, he was the first to traverse Mt. Everest and climbing the West Ridge and descending the South Col route during the 1963 Everest Expedition) Unsoeld's daughter,
Nanda Devi Unsoeld, who was named after the peak, died on this expedition due to Altitude sickness at around 24,000. (This expedition remains a controversial one in which climbers approached the mountain with huge ego's and instead of climbing together often resorted to blatant one upmanship , a trend which is sadly still very prevalent amongst the professional climbers of today.)
In 1981, the first women to stand on the summit were part of an Indian led expedition.
Nanda Devi EastNanda Devi East was first climbed in 1939 by a four-member Polish expedition led by
Adam Karpinski. They climbed the south ridge, from Longstaff Col; this is still the standard route on the peak. The summit party were
J. Klarner and J. Bujak Karpinski and Stefan Bernardzikiewicz died later in an attempt on nearby Trishuli.
The first attempt to traverse the ridge between the main summit and Nanda Devi East resulted in the death of two members of a French expedition in 1951. Team leader
Roger Duplat and Gilbert Vignes disappeared on the ridge somewhere below the main summit
Tenzing Norgay was in a support team on this expedition; he and
Louis Dubost climbed Nanda Devi East to look for the missing pair. Some years later Tenzing was asked what was the most difficult climb he ever did, expecting him to say Mount Everest; he surprised his interlocutors by saying Nanda Devi East.
The standard approach to the south ridge route, from the Milam Valley to the east, passes through Lawan Glacier via Lawan Gad and thence to Longstaff Col. The trek to base camp goes through the villages of Munsiyari, Lilam, Bogudiar, Martoli, Nasanpatti, and Bhadeligwar. An alternate route climbs the southwest face, from a base camp inside the Sanctuary.
Partial timeline * 1934: First entry into the inner Sanctuary by Eric Shipton and H.W. Tilman
* 1936: The first ascent of Nanda Devi by Odell and Tilman.
* 1939: First ascent of Nanda Devi East by Klarner, Bujak.
* 1951: Attempted traverse and death of Duplat and Vignes. Second ascent of Nanda Devi East.
* 1964: Second ascent of Nanda Devi by Indian team led by N. Kumar.
* 196?: Covert ascent by Indo-American expedition?
* 1975: A 13-member Indo-French expedition led by Y. Pollet-Villard including Coudray, Renault, Sandhu, and Chand ascend climbed both Nanda Devi and Nanda Devi East but failed to accomplish the traverse of the connecting ridge.
* 1976: A 21-member Indo-Japanese team approaches the south ridges of main peak and Nanda Devi East simultaneously, and achieves the first traverse, going from Nanda Devi East to the main summit.
* 1981: An Indian Army expedition attempts both main and East peaks simultaneously. The southwest face of Nanda Devi East is climbed for the first time, but both Premjit Lal and Phu Dorjee are killed in the descent. Three others – Daya Chand, Ram Singh, and Lakha Singh – also fall to their deaths, leading to the highest ever number of casualties on the mountain.
After the re-opening of the Sanctuary in 1974 to foreign climbers, trekkers, and locals, the fragile ecosystem was soon compromised by firewood cutting, garbage, and grazing. Serious environmental problems were noted as early as 1977, and the sanctuary was closed in 1983.
Currently, Nanda Devi forms the core of the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve (which includes Nanda Devi National Park), declared by the Indian government in 1982. In 1988, Nanda Devi National Park was declared a
UNESCO World Heritage Site,
"of outstanding cultural or natural importance to the common heritage of humankind."The entire sanctuary, and hence the main summit (and interior approaches to the nearby peaks) are off-limits to locals and to climbing expeditions. An exception was made in 1993 for a 40-member team from the
Garhwal Rifles Regiment of the Indian Army to check the state of recovery and remove garbage left by prior expeditions.
The expedition also successfully scaled the peak.
Nanda Devi East remains open from the east side, leading to the standard south ridge route.