Alpenglow during Sunset on Kancha on the Yuksom- Dzongri -Goecha La Trek , through the Singilila Ranges in Sikkim.
Kabru glacier in foreground and Kanchenjunga with its 5 summits behind.
Kabru Dome slopes on the left hand side.
Mt Kangchenjunga 8,586 m is the third highest mountain in the world (after Mount Everest and K2). & the highest mountain in India. Kangchenjunga translated means "The Five Treasures of Snows";, as it contains five peaks, four of them over 8,450 metres. The treasures represent the five repositories of god, which are gold, silver, gems, grain, and holy books. Kangchenjunga is also called Sewalungma in local Limbu language and considered sacred in Kirant religion.
Three of these five peaks (main, central, and south) are on the border of North Sikkim district of Sikkim, India and Taplejung District of Nepal, while the other two are completely in Taplejung District.
Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations made by the British Great Trigonometric Survey in 1849 came to the conclusion that Mount Everest was the highest and Kangchenjunga the third-highest.
A brief time line is below:
1852: The height of Mt Everest is calculated based on the results of the 1849 British Great Trigonometric Survey, and it is discovered that Kangchenjunga is no longer the highest mountain in the world as previously thought, but the third highest at 28,169 feet (8586 meters).
1899: British climber and explorer Douglas Freshfield and famous Italian photographer Vittorio Sella are the first to circumnavigate the mountain. Illegally traveling through Eastern Nepal, they are the first mountaineers to view the great Western Face of Kangchenjunga.
1905: Alistair Crowley (the famous Occultist) sets up a camp at the head of the Yalung Glacier in Nepal. He establishes a high camp at 21,325 feet (6500 meters) when disaster strikes. A party of porters and climbers, including climbers Alexis Pache and Dr Jacot-Guillarmod, insist on descending in the afternoon to Camp 7 at 20,500 feet (6250 meters). The inadequately supplied porters - reportedly climbing barefooted! - repeatedly slip on the icy slopes, and eventually on a traverse a fall triggers an avalanche. The sad result is that Pache and three porters are killed. Hearing their shouts, Crowley reportedly refuses to descend and help, remaining in his tent drinking tea. He is quoted in a newspaper as saying he was "not over-anxious in the circumstances...to render help. A mountain accident of this sort is one of the things for which I have no sympathy whatever".
1920 Dr. A. M Kellas makes his last of 6 trips to Sikkim and along with Howard Raeburn (a fellow team member of the 1921 Mt. Everest Expedition) reach 23,500ft.
1929: German post-monsoon expedition led by Dr.Paul Bauer attacks the NE Spur starting from the Zemu Glacier in Sikkim. Utilizing a series of snow caves in bad weather conditions, the team reaches 24,300 feet (7400 meters). A five-day storm buries most of their equipment so they are forced to retreat.
1930: International Expedition led by George Dyhrenfurth and including the German Uli Wieland, Austrian Erwin Schneider(famous for his Schneider Maps nowadays) , and the Briton Frank Smythe. & Wood Jhonson, Surprisingly they are granted permission to approach the NW side from Nepal. During an attempt on the North Ridge the porter Chettan (who was then considered one of the best Sherpa's around) and Schneider are swept away in an avalanche - Chettan is killed but Schneider miraculously survives. A new attempt is made on the NW Face, but the expedition is eventually called off because of hard climbing and poor snow conditions. They however make an ascent of the Jomson Peak
1931: Second German Expedition led by Paul Bauer, again attempting the NE Spur. The attempt is plagued by bad weather, illnesses and deaths. Bauer has to leave the expedition and a Sherpa and porter die - all due to sickness. After another accident where a climber and Sherpa are killed in a fall, the expedition retreats after climbing only a little higher than the 1929 attempt.
1955: FIRST ASCENT - British Expedition led by Dr. Charles Evans (Deputy Leader of the Successful Mt. Everest expedition of 1953) via the SW Face using oxygen. The now classic route follows the Yalung Glacier to the base of the SW Face, over the Western Buttress to the Great Shelf which lies below the amphitheater formed by the Main summit and Yalung Kang. Above the Great Shelf the route is pushed up The Gangway to near the West Ridge, where the pinnacled ridge crest is avoided by climbing the headwall until the summit ridge can be reached. The first assault pair of Joe Brown and George Band (Band was also the youngest man on the successful Everest Expedition) are successful, followed by a second successful ascent by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather. Out of respect for local beliefs, the actual summit itself remained virgin, a tradition that continued until recent years.
The summits of Kancha are:
Kangchenjunga Main 8,586mtrs 28,169ft
Kangchenjunga West 8,505mtrs 27,904ft (Yalung Kang)
Kanchenjunga Central 8,482mtrs 27,828ft (Middle)
Kanchenjunga South 8,494mtrs 27,867ft