Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Fire On The Mountain.

Fire On The Mountain.

{"The Evening Tempest Begins, as Clouds boil over the Kabru Ridge in Sikkim."}

Sikkim is one of the places which like Ladakh has a special lure for me.. Have made 3 trips exploring in and around The Kanch Massif, Yumthang Valley, Gurudrongmar Lake and a midway aborted attempt to recreate the 1935 route of the German expedition which had Frank Smythe too...

The land is forever shrouded in mist and the activity of the clouds as the monsoon carrying winds from the Bay of Bengal rush over the gangetic plains to hit the barrier created by the Himalayas and find path their blocked onwards towards Tibet is also a fascinating aspect.. Here you literally see nature at work....and feel a closer kinship with everything creation has gifted to us.

It is scenes like this which compensate for the hard terrain, leaches and the cold one has to bear during trekking in Sikkim..

To have seen this one moment and feel so connected to some higher forces of creation is what draws me to these wildernesses and makes it all those hardships worthwhile

Friday, January 18, 2008

Evening Light on the Mountainside Zanskar Ladakh.

(excerpt from my diary)

As the evening gets on I start walking towards a viewpoint overlooking the village., the mountainside behind turns deep golden in this light, and very large. I climb the the nearest ridge one from which I hope to see the sun set over the whole area of Ladakh. It is steep, and I pause several times to take a drink from my water bottle, the weight of the camera and the tripod slowing me down even more and I feel the aftereffects of a day spent trekking in this rugged landscape under a hot sun. At last I reach the top a few minutes before sunset. The day is still very warm.
Far below me to the left are a few squares of harvest-ripe yellow barley and a crescent-shaped pool, and to the far right the dunes stretch out towards the Buddhist grottoes.

In front, the world lies undulating in fantastic ridges and stratas reflecting the tumultuous history of formation... Centuries compressed in stone. silents sentinels to history

The valley floor is dark green and gold, the few stringy poplars and corn fields ending abruptly in the distance, where the sand and stony plains of the Changthang take over. The gorged waters of the River look thin and innocuous from this distance. The electric lights come on Over and shimmer through the levels of cooling air. It is quite still

Above, the sky, marked with a few residual clouds, changes to a deep red, and the sun sinks over the vague horizon of the desert. For a few minutes afterwards, the underside of the clouds reflects a sun already invisible, and by a strange tilt of light the sky actually appears to become brighter and in a majestic moment lights up only the mountains opposite.. I am transfixed.. it looks like liquid gold...


Then the angle changes, the clouds turn grey, and above me is a sky of deep indigo. In this desert night the Milky Way is brilliantly clear.

Monday, January 14, 2008

Remebering Ed Hillary



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The great mountaineer, explorer & friend to the Sherpas died aged 88...

Sir Edmund HillarySir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made history on May 29, 1953.. when they successfully climbed Mount Everest.

Born July 20, 1919 in Auckland, New Zealand, to Percival Augustus Hillary and Gertrude Hillary, in Auckland, on 20 July 1919.

The family moved to Tuakau, a village about 40 miles (64.37 kilometres) south of Auckland in 1920.

Hillary’s father, a veteran of The Gallipoli campaign during World War 1, was allocated land there after the war.

Edmund was educated at Tuakau Primary School and then Auckland Grammar School.

He used the two hour each way bus journey to read. His favourite author and hero was mountaineer Eric Shipton.

He had his first experience of mountain climbing at age 16 during a school trip to Mount Ruapehu.

Completing his first major climb in 1939 after reaching the summit of Mount Oliver in the Southern Alps, he became a beekeeper with his brother Ray.

This occupation enabled him to take time to indulge his passion for mountain climbing during winter.

After the outbreak of World War 2, Hillary applied to join the air force, but withdrew his application due to religious convictions.

Following the outbreak of war in the Pacific in 1943, he was conscripted and joined the Royal New Zealand Airforce as a Catalina Flying Boat navigator.

In 1950 Hillary climbed in the Swiss and Austrian Alps.

Later, in 1952, he joined a New Zealand expedition to the Himalayas.

At the end of 1951 Hillary joined a British Everest Reconnaissance expedition.

Between 1921 and 1953 eight major expeditions had attempted the climb and failed. 16 deaths had occurred over this period.

These attempts had been mostly from the north through Tibet.

After World War 2, Nepal allowed entry to Western expeditions, and new, more accessible routes were found.

This also led to the participation of Sherpa guides in future attempts.

In a 1952 attempt at the summit, Swiss climber Raymond Lambert and Tenzing Norgay reached 27,100 ft (about 8,260m) on Everest.

At this time, this was the highest that anyone had ever climbed.

In late 1952 a British expedition led by Col. John Hunt assembled in England and travelled to India, then on to Nepal.

Hillary joined the 15-man team, which was one of the most professional ever assembled to that point in time.

As well as Hunt and Hillary, the team included Hillary’s close friend George Lowe, Tenzing Norgay, known in Nepal as the “Tiger of the Snows,” eight other British climbers, a cameraman, doctor and James Morris, a reporter from the London Times.

Hillary and Tenzing left their camp at 8,500m (about 27,890 ft) at 6.30 on May 28, 1953.

At 11:30 a.m. the same day, they reached the summit: 8,848 meters (29,028 ft) above sea level.

Quick Facts About Mount Everest:

* Longitude: 86º55’40″ E

* Latitude: 27º59’16″ N

* Nepalese Name: Sagarmatha

* Tibetan Name: Qomolungma (Chomolungma)

Mt Everest was located by Sir George Everest in 1841. Everest was the Indian Surveyor General at the time.

At that time it was called ‘Peak XV’, and was named Everest in 1865.

In Nepal, the peak is known as Sagarmatha, and in Tibet as Qomolungma “the mother goddess of the earth”.

Hillary After Mount Everest:

Hillary’s passion for adventure continued, and in 1958, he led a support team for Vivian Fuch’s planned crossing of Antarctica.

He made a dash on a farm tractor to the South Pole, becoming the first person ever to reach it in a motorized vehicle.

In 1968, Hillary took a jetboat through the wild rivers of Nepal, and in 1977 travelled up the Ganges river from the see to the mountains in a jetboat.

In 1962 he founded the Himalayan Trust, and spent the next 40 years helping to build schools, hospitals, medical centers and bridges in Nepal.



A few links which recount and salute this pioneering soul who enriched many a life.

Sir Edmund Hillary 1919 - 2008


His Life

BBC News

Monday, January 7, 2008

North face of Thalay Sagar, India.

Elevation 6,904 m (22,651 ft)[1]
Location Uttarakhand, India
Range Gangotri Group, Garhwal Himalaya
Prominence 1,000 m (3,280 ft)

Coordinates 30°51′29″N 78°59′50″E / 30.85806, 78.99722

First ascent June 24, 1979 by Roy Kligfield, John Thackray, Pete Thexton

Easiest route Northwest couloir and ridge: technical rock/snow/ice climb



One of the few peaks in the Garhwal Himalayas which is frequently climbed. till 2003 the summit had been reached by 5 different routes. in 2003, three more were added and since then 1 more.

This alluring North face is often referred to as The Devil's Red Wall, because of the different types of climbing skills needed to reach the summit of this complex face
there is constant avalanche and rockfall danger due to the shale rock band on the upper slopes.The first route to climb directly through the shale band, instead of finishing on one of the ridges, was the Australian Route done by Andrew Lindblade and Athol Whimp; it involves 1,400 m (4,600 ft) of climbing and is graded VII 5.9 WI5.[5] Their climb was awarded the Piolet d'Or in 1998. (The Golden Axe is like the oscar of the climbing world, awarded to the toughest new routes of the year adhering to the Alpine Style.

Uploaded by The Wandering Hermit on 23 Dec 07, 10.10PM IST.